Not currently on display at the V&A

Jumper

ca. 1985 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Mariuccia Mandelli's design house Krizia is named after Plato's discourse on the vanity of women. Krizia collections are renowned for their eclecticism, but also their distinctive, clever and light-hearted designs such as this knitted jumper with animal print. The house branched out into knitwear in 1967 and the following year began experimenting with their signature animal motif. Each collection by Krizia is created under the influence of a lucky animal charm, which began with the humble sheep in 1968, shown on a sweater almost jokingly as if to thank it for its wool; to swans, tigers and cobras in 1978-79 and the highly-copied leopard's paw on the shoulder in 1980.

The American press called her "Krazy Krizia" for her highly original and often ironically provocative clothes. Speaking about taking her inspiration from animals, Mandelli said: 'For me they perform spells. I put animals everywhere, on sweaters, on clothes and accessories; but more than love them I'm slightly in awe of them, frightened of them. I admire their beauty and natural elegance of movement, their indifference yet I fear them as unpredictable and mysterious creatures. I prefer them in affectionate interpretations, slightly ironical as cuddly toy animals often are. (Tutino Vercelloni, Isa, Krizia. Una storia, Milano: Skira editore, 1995.)

Over fifty collections a year are created for the various Krizia labels, including menswear, childrenswear, knitwear, glasses, handbags, ties, perfumes, kitchen furniture and much more. There have been a number of different designers in charge of design but Mariuccia Mandelli is still very much a hands-on designer at her house.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Knitted, in cashmere, wool and angora mix
Brief description
Knitted jumper with animal motif, Krizia, ca. 1985, Italy
Physical description
Long-sleeved, round-knecked knitted jumper in blue cashmere, wool and angora mix, with grey wool patterning on the sleeves and an image of a large cat's head motif on the front in shades of grey, cream and brown.
Dimensions
  • Length: 59cm
  • Bust circumference: 96cm
Production typeReady to wear
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'Krizia / maglia / MADE IN ITALY' (Label at the back of the neck.)
  • 42 (Label at the back of the neck.)
  • 85% CASHMERE / CASHMERE / KASHMIR / CACHEMIRE / 10% LANA / WOOL / WOLLE / LAINE / 5% ANGORA / ANGORA / ANGORA / ANGORA (Label at the back of the neck.)
Gallery label
Label for the exhibition: "The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014" PUMA JUMPER Krizia, about 1985 Cashmere, wool and angora blend Mariuccia Mandelli showed a knitted jumper in her first catwalk show at the Sala Bianca in 1964. From that moment, knitwear was an integral part of her fashion house, Krizia. Her dedicated knitwear line, Krizia Maglia, often featured abstract geometric shapes and images of wild animals, such as the grey puma on this jumper. Technological advances made Krizia’s complex patterns possible to execute. GIVEN BY KRIZIA V&A: T.46-2007(05/04/2014-27/07/2014)
Credit line
Given by Krizia
Summary
Mariuccia Mandelli's design house Krizia is named after Plato's discourse on the vanity of women. Krizia collections are renowned for their eclecticism, but also their distinctive, clever and light-hearted designs such as this knitted jumper with animal print. The house branched out into knitwear in 1967 and the following year began experimenting with their signature animal motif. Each collection by Krizia is created under the influence of a lucky animal charm, which began with the humble sheep in 1968, shown on a sweater almost jokingly as if to thank it for its wool; to swans, tigers and cobras in 1978-79 and the highly-copied leopard's paw on the shoulder in 1980.

The American press called her "Krazy Krizia" for her highly original and often ironically provocative clothes. Speaking about taking her inspiration from animals, Mandelli said: 'For me they perform spells. I put animals everywhere, on sweaters, on clothes and accessories; but more than love them I'm slightly in awe of them, frightened of them. I admire their beauty and natural elegance of movement, their indifference yet I fear them as unpredictable and mysterious creatures. I prefer them in affectionate interpretations, slightly ironical as cuddly toy animals often are. (Tutino Vercelloni, Isa, Krizia. Una storia, Milano: Skira editore, 1995.)

Over fifty collections a year are created for the various Krizia labels, including menswear, childrenswear, knitwear, glasses, handbags, ties, perfumes, kitchen furniture and much more. There have been a number of different designers in charge of design but Mariuccia Mandelli is still very much a hands-on designer at her house.
Bibliographic reference
(Tutino Vercelloni, Isa, Krizia. Una storia, Milano: Skira editore, 1995. 21, p. ISBN 8881180030)
Collection
Accession number
T.46-2007

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Record createdJuly 19, 2007
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