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Given by Krizia
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Mariuccia Mandelli's design house Krizia is named after Plato's discourse on the vanity of women. Krizia collections are renowned for their eclecticism, but also their distinctive, clever and light-hearted designs and this winged pleated dress is highly representative of the originality of the label.
Krizia's penchant for pleating started with an accordion-pleated raincoat in the Autumn/Winter 1978-79 collection, long before pleating triumphed on the national and international catwalks. This was followed by experimentation with technique and with the properties of materials - the label played with different types of horizontal, knife and spiral pleating; lacquered linen gazar pleating, silk organza pleating and, from 1987-88, Fortuny style pleating. Every now and again the pleats reappear in Krizia designs, renewed and recreated.
Over fifty collections a year are created for the various Krizia labels, including menswear, childrenswear, knitwear, glasses, handbags, ties, perfumes, kitchen furniture and much more. There have been a number of different designers in charge of design but as of 2007 Mariuccia Mandelli still very much a hands-on designer at her house.
Long-sleeved pleated black silk crêpe dress with a wrapover bodice. This garment has a sewn in slip underneath it and the skirts have a culotte effect, overlaid with a layer of pleated fabric that falls to a point. The dress has a zip fastening and the cuffs are fastened with buttons.
Place of Origin
Materials and Techniques
Length: 107 cm, Circumference: 75 cm waist
Pleated black silk crêpe, Krizia, 1981, Italy.
Labels and date
Label for the exhibition: "The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014"
PLEATED BLACK SILK JUMPSUIT
From the late 1970s, Krizia founder Mariuccia Mandelli was associated with her inventive experiments with pleated garments. She first presented her designs in 1964 at the Sala Bianca. Krizia’s dressed-up simplicity typifies Italy’s
GIVEN BY KRIZIA
V&A: T.45-2007 [05/04/2014-27/07/2014]
Textiles and Fashion Collection