This ensemble is typical of men’s court dress at the end of the 18th century. Although the most formal style of dress worn, it was not the most fashionable. By 1800, rich fabrics and embroidery were no longer in style for men’s suits. The standing collar, curving coat fronts and waistcoat style are also old fashioned, representing the cut and shape seen in the 1780s.
However, the requirements of court dress kept alive the textile and embroidery industries of the 18th century. The embroidery for the coat and waistcoat were done first, in the areas where it was required for the finished garment. Although made of different fabrics the coat and waistcoat share the same embroidery design. They would have been sold together by a silk mercer, then taken to the tailor to be made to fit the purchaser.
Physical description
Man's court dress suit consisting of an embroidered coat and waistcoat.
[Coat] Court coat of plum-coloured velvet, single-breasted. Embroidered with coloured silks in a floral pattern and chenille along the fronts, collar and cuffs and pocket flaps, back vent and pleats. Lined with cream satin. Cut with deeply curved fronts at the chest and without waist seams. It fastens on the fourth button and buttonhole, the remaining buttonholes are false and the other buttons are purely decorative. The collar is upright and very high, 4.5 inches at the front. The back is cut in two pieces with the centre back seam and a back vent with side pleats close to the centre back, and each is finished with a button at the top and another at the hem. There are two pockets on either side with pointed flaps and three buttons. The pocket bags are very deep and are made of linen. Twenty-four embroidered buttons: nine down the front, three on each cuff, three on each pocket, two on the pleats and one at the hem.
[Waistcoat] Court waistcoat, single-breasted, of ivory satin embroidered along the front edges and collar with coloured silks in the same floral pattern as the coat. The front panels also have an all-over pattern of tiny floral sprigs and rosettes. Made with cut-away fronts and reaches at the hips where there are two shallow flapped pockets. High upright collar, 3.5 inches at the front. Lined and back with bleached cotton. Adjustable cotton tape ties at back. The sides have been taken-in at least three inches each side and machine stitched with mercerised cotton. The skirt points have also been turned-in and stitched down. Eleven embroidered buttons with buttonholes, but the top three buttonholes are false.
Place of Origin
England, Great Britain (possibly, made)
Scotland, Great Britain (possibly, made)
Date
ca. 1800 (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Silk, cotton, chenille and silk thread, pleated, hand-sewn, hand-embroidered, and later machine stitched, and with linen pockets and lined with satin
Dimensions
[Coat] Length: 125 cm approx., Circumference: 113 cm chest
[Waistcoat] Length: 79.5 cm approx., Circumference: 113.2 cm chest
Object history note
Registered File number 1984/2198. A pair of matching velvet breeches would have completed this suit.
The suit is associated with the Tweedale family.
[Coat] High collar and shaped front indicates a date of ca. 1800. Sleeve has been re-set. Waist seam suggests it was embroidered to shape, then made to fit by a tailor.
Various alterations to the coat have occurred on one or two occasions since the 1820s. The alterations have been made to accommodate a slimmer man. The method employed shows a knowledge of tailoring that only appeared after the 1820s and 1830s. The most significant is the use of underarm seams from armhole to waist combined with a front dart and a tuck in the front waist creating a waist seam. The use of underarm seams first appeared in the late 1820s/early 1830s, waist seams appeared in the 1820s. Before the waist seam, a tuck or dart or 'fish' was employed to ensure a better fit to a coat. The coat has been skillfully broadened at the shoulders and a crescent-shaped piece of matching velvet and corresponding lining have been let-in at the top of each armhole. The sleeves have been re-set, giving a puffed appearance at the head of the sleeves. These gathered and raised sleeves were typical of 1820-1840.
[Waistcoat] Waistcoat chest size was originally 49 inches in circumference (124.5cm).
Descriptive line
Tweedale court dress suit consisting of an embroidered coat and waistcoat, possibly made in England or Scotland, ca. 1800
Materials
Silk (textile); Cotton (textile); Silk thread; Linen (material); Chenille; Mercerized cotton
Techniques
Satin weave; Hand sewing; Velvet weave; Hand embroidery; Lined; Machine stitched; Pleated
Subjects depicted
Rosettes; Floral sprays; Sprigs; Buttons
Categories
Textiles; Embroidery; Fashion; Formal wear; Men's clothes
Collection code
T&F
