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Brooch
  • Brooch
    Tostrup, Jacob Ulrik Holfeldt, born 1806 - died 1890
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Brooch

  • Place of origin:

    Christiania (made)

  • Date:

    1867 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Tostrup, Jacob Ulrik Holfeldt, born 1806 - died 1890 (maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silver and filigree, partly gilded

  • Museum number:

    563-1868

  • Gallery location:

    Jewellery, Rooms 91 to 93 mezzanine, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery, case 69, shelf D, box 5

The brooch was the most important piece of jewellery in Norwegian traditional dress. There are well over 50 different names for ring brooches in Norwegian. Each kind of brooch has its own distinctive name, some of which date back to the Middle Ages.

In the 1860s, Norwegian silversmiths working in the main towns started to make fashionable jewellery in traditional Norwegian styles. Jacob Tostrup was one of the leaders of this movement. This brooch is among the first examples of this new style. Although it uses traditional techniques and patterns, it is much too fragile to have been worn with traditional costume. It was probably intended as a souvenir of typical Norwegian craftsmanship.

It is marked on the back with full silver marks for the period. 13 ¼ L stands for 828 standard silver, and was used before around 1880. TOSTRUP 1867 is the maker’s mark and date of manufacture. CHRISTIANIA is the old name for Oslo, the Norwegian capital. It was renamed Oslo in 1925. In the acquisitions register, this brooch is described as bought from Mr Tostrup for £1 8s 6d at the International Exhibition, Paris, 1867.

Physical description

Silver brooch, made from a disc of sheet silver, slightly curved and gilded on the front. Round the edge of this disc are ten coil rings, each with a loop in the centre, holding a pendant of three filigree 'eyes', with a curved bowl pendant at the bottom. Ten more pendants of the same design hang from loops between the coil rings. There is a filigree rosette over the central disc. Several of the pendants are damaged or missing.

Place of Origin

Christiania (made)

Date

1867 (made)

Artist/maker

Tostrup, Jacob Ulrik Holfeldt, born 1806 - died 1890 (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Silver and filigree, partly gilded

Marks and inscriptions

'13 1/4 L'
Mark for 828 standard silver, used in Norway before about 1880
On back of back-plate.

'TOSTRUP 1867'
Mark of Jacob Tostrup of Oslo, and date of manufacture
On back of back-plate.

'CHRISTIANIA'
Place of manufacture. Christiania was the name used for Oslo before 1877.
On back of back-plate.

Dimensions

Diameter: 6.5 cm, Length: 8.5 cm, Depth: 1.3 cm

Descriptive line

Silver brooch, partly gilded, with numerous filigree pendants, Norway, 19th century.

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Illustrated in:
'Italian Jewellery as worn by The Peasants of Italy. Collected by Signor Castellani, and purchased from the Paris Universal Exhibition for The South Kensington Museum', London, Arundel Society for Promoting the Knowledge of Art, 1868, plate 12, 'Peasant Jewellery. Modern Turkish, Norwegian, Danish', where it was included under:
‘Modern Norwegian Popular Jewellery. Bought at the Paris Exhibition, 1867.’

Materials

Silver

Techniques

Filigree

Categories

Jewellery; Metalwork

Collection

Metalwork Collection

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