Xianggui 香闺 thumbnail 1
Xianggui 香闺 thumbnail 2
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Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
China, Room 44, The T.T. Tsui Gallery

Xianggui 香闺

Tunic
2016 (made), 2015 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Rui Xu (b. 1976) is an emerging fashion designer and artist from China. She is currently Associate Professor in Fashion at the Central Academy of Fine Arts, Beijing, where she was trained. From 2014 to 2015, she furthered her practice at the Fashion Department of the Royal College of Art in London. She travels between Beijing and London as she establishes her luxury and read-to-wear brands.

This garment called Xianggui (‘a lady’s chamber’) is a recent work in Rui Xu’s luxury fashion brand XIANGWANGYI. It showcases a number of features in Rui’s designs: The textile is an innovative creation that Rui developed in collaboration with Dr Kinor Jiang, a professor at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University. It involves metal plating onto natural textiles. The hooped sleeves hark back to her early works that established her reputation, and adds a playful element that is often seen in her work.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Titles
  • Xianggui 香闺 (assigned by artist)
  • Xiang Wang Yi (series title)
Materials and techniques
Metallised polyester organza, metallised silk twill, agate buttons
Brief description
Tunic, titled 'Xianggui' 香闺 (a lady’s chamber’) from the 'Xiang Wang Yi' 象罔衣 series, metallised polyester organza, metallic silk twill, agate buttons, by Rui Xu, Beijing, China, 2016; textile by Dr Kinor Jiang, Hong Kong SAR, 2015
Physical description
Tunic with a qipao-style single chest opening secured by agate buttons, a ruff collar and hooped sleeves of metallised polyester organza, the body is made of grey-bronze metallised silk and with bust dart. This type of upper garment is called 'ao' in Chinese, usually worn over a skirt or a pair of trousers.
Dimensions
  • Height: 112cm (maximum)
Production typeLimited edition
Marks and inscriptions
Xiang Wang Yi (series title printed in white on black cloth label, sewn on back of neck)
Translation
象罔衣
Object history
This tunic was newly made by Xu Rui in 2016 for the V&A. It is part of the designer's Xiang Wang Yi 象罔衣 series.

The fabrics used to produce this garment are polyester organza and silk twill, which have been coated with a layer of varied fine metal particles, are results of Xu's collaboration with Hong Kong textile specialist Kinor Jiang. The duo used metal plating to cover delicate synthetic or natural fabrics, through heat an unexpected range of colours then appear on the fabric.
Summary
Rui Xu (b. 1976) is an emerging fashion designer and artist from China. She is currently Associate Professor in Fashion at the Central Academy of Fine Arts, Beijing, where she was trained. From 2014 to 2015, she furthered her practice at the Fashion Department of the Royal College of Art in London. She travels between Beijing and London as she establishes her luxury and read-to-wear brands.

This garment called Xianggui (‘a lady’s chamber’) is a recent work in Rui Xu’s luxury fashion brand XIANGWANGYI. It showcases a number of features in Rui’s designs: The textile is an innovative creation that Rui developed in collaboration with Dr Kinor Jiang, a professor at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University. It involves metal plating onto natural textiles. The hooped sleeves hark back to her early works that established her reputation, and adds a playful element that is often seen in her work.
Bibliographic reference
Peng Qingxin (ed.), Fabric: Metallic Textile Art of Kinor Jiang, Hong Kong: The Hong Kong Polytehnica University, 2021
Collection
Accession number
FE.107-2016

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Record createdAugust 22, 2016
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