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Tunic - Xianggui 香闺

Xianggui 香闺

  • Object:

    Tunic

  • Place of origin:

    Beijing (tunic, made)
    Hong Kong (Textile, made)

  • Date:

    2016 (made)
    2015 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Xu, Rui, born 1976 (designer)
    Jiang, Kinor (Dr) (maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Metallised polyester organza, metallised silk twill, agate buttons

  • Museum number:

    FE.107-2016

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Rui Xu (b. 1976) is an emerging fashion designer and artist from China. She is currently Associate Professor in Fashion at the Central Academy of Fine Arts, Beijing, where she was trained. From 2014 to 2015, she furthered her practice at the Fashion Department of the Royal College of Art in London. She travels between Beijing and London as she establishes her luxury and read-to-wear brands.

This garment called Xianggui (‘a lady’s chamber’) is a recent work in Rui Xu’s luxury fashion brand XIANGWANGYI. It showcases a number of features in Rui’s designs: The textile is an innovative creation that Rui developed in collaboration with Dr Kinor Jiang, a professor at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University. It involves metal plating onto natural textiles. The hooped sleeves hark back to her early works that established her reputation, and adds a playful element that is often seen in her work.

Physical description

Tunic with a qipao-style single chest opening secured by agate buttons, a ruffled collar and hooped sleeves of metallised polyester organza, the body with bust darts made of grey-bronze metallised silk.

This type of upper garment is called 'ao' in Chinese, usually worn over a skirt or a pair of trousers.

Place of Origin

Beijing (tunic, made)
Hong Kong (Textile, made)

Date

2016 (made)
2015 (made)

Artist/maker

Xu, Rui, born 1976 (designer)
Jiang, Kinor (Dr) (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Metallised polyester organza, metallised silk twill, agate buttons

Marks and inscriptions

Xiang Wang Yi
象罔衣
series title printed in white on black cloth label, sewn on back of neck

Dimensions

Height: 112 cm maximum

Object history note

This tunic was newly made by Xu Rui in 2016 for the V&A. It is part of the designer's Xiang Wang Yi 象罔衣 series.

The fabrics used to produce this garment are polyester organza and silk twill, which have been coated with a layer of varied fine metal particles, are results of Xu's collaboration with Hong Kong textile specialist Kinor Jiang. The duo used metal plating to cover delicate synthetic or natural fabrics, through heat an unexpected range of colours then appear on the fabric.

Descriptive line

Tunic, titled 'Xianggui' 香闺 (a lady’s chamber’) from the 'Xiang Wang Yi' 象罔衣 series, metallised polyester organza, metallic silk twill, agate buttons, by Rui Xu, Beijing, China, 2016; textile by Dr Kinor Jiang, Hong Kong SAR, 2015

Materials

Polyester; Silk; Metal; Agate

Techniques

Sewing; Metallizing

Categories

Fashion; Textiles; Costumes

Production Type

Limited edition

Collection

East Asia Collection

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