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Waistcoat

  • Place of origin:

    Great Britain (made)

  • Date:

    1740s (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silk, linen, baleen; hand-woven, hand-quilted, hand-sewn

  • Museum number:

    T.87-1978

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Women’s waistcoats were usually sleeveless like a man’s waistcoat, but shorter and shaped to fit over stays. Boned versions werer known as 'jumps' and worn informally at home in place of stays, together with a petticoat and bedgown. This example is made of silk quilted in a diaper pattern. Bright yellow was a popular colour for women’s dress from the 1740s to the 1770s. Quilting was a common type of needlework in the 18th century, as it was both decorative and practical. It can also be seen on petticoats and gowns. This waistcoat has a matching pair of pockets.

Physical description

Woman’s waistcoat or jumps made of yellow silk taffeta, backed with yellow silk taffeta and bound with yellow grosgrain silk ribbon. It has a shallow V neckline and rounded skirts below the waist. Inside there are 5 canvas panels, 1 at centre back reinforced with 6 strips of baleen, 2 at each side with 4 strips of baleen and 1 on each front with 5 strips. The waistcoat is quilted in a diamond pattern with yellow silk floss in running stitch. There is a quilted border of a floral design along the front edges and skirt hems. It fastens at centre front with 11 worked lacing holes on each side.

This waistcoat is part of an ensemble with a matching pair of quilted yellow silk pockets (see T.87A&B-1978).

Place of Origin

Great Britain (made)

Date

1740s (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Silk, linen, baleen; hand-woven, hand-quilted, hand-sewn

Dimensions

Circumference: 56 cm Waist - measured inside garment, Circumference: 72 cm Bust - measured inside garment, Length: 35 cm Nape-waist

Descriptive line

Woman's waistcoat or jumps of quilted yellow silk, Great Britain, 1740s; boned

Materials

Silk (textile); Silk thread; Linen (material); Baleen

Techniques

Hand sewing; Quilting; Hand weaving

Categories

Fashion; Women's clothes; Europeana Fashion Project

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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