The market for all qualities of lace grew in the mid 19th century. Handmade lace was a status symbol that demonstrated wealth and position. In the 1850s and 1860s people began to spend large quantities on luxury lace as they had done in the 18th century. Manufacturers of handmade lace recognised that technical and stylistic excellence were needed to compete successfully against the threat of machine-made lace.

This border or flounce was made in Alençon, one of the main centres for high quality hand made needle lace in France since the 17th century.