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books - Civilisovaná žena : Jak se má kultivovaná žena oblékati = Zivilisierte Frau : Wie sich eine kultivierte Frau ankleiden soll / redakce B. Horneková, J. Vaněk, Zd. Rossmann

Civilisovaná žena : Jak se má kultivovaná žena oblékati = Zivilisierte Frau : Wie sich eine kultivierte Frau ankleiden soll / redakce B. Horneková, J. Vaněk, Zd. Rossmann

  • Object:

    books

  • Place of origin:

    Brno (printed and published)

  • Date:

    1929 (printed and published)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Rossmann, Zdeněk, born 1905 - died 1984 (designer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    machine sewn sections adhered into a paper cover.

  • Museum number:

    38041800727851

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Physical description

95 pages illustrated with black-and-white photographs and a cover in black, red and grey. Typography of the title page and the preliminary pages is in both black and red, 25 cm.

Place of Origin

Brno (printed and published)

Date

1929 (printed and published)

Artist/maker

Rossmann, Zdeněk, born 1905 - died 1984 (designer)

Materials and Techniques

machine sewn sections adhered into a paper cover.

Dimensions

Length: 245 mm closed, Width: 174 mm closed, Depth: 6 mm closed

Object history note

The Jobbing Printing Collection, a collection of ephemera held in the National Art Library (NAL) at the V&A, was developed between 1936 and 1939, when Philip James (then Deputy Keeper at the NAL) requested samples of work from high-profile companies and designers across Britain, Europe and North America. Possibly responding to an article by Beatrice Warde describing an imaginary box of ‘jobs’ that would “display noteworthy new developments in printing”, James’ intention was to create an “open reference collection of commercial typography" and "to exhibit contemporary specimens from time to time so that the trend of typographic design, both in this country and abroad, could be appraised by students of industrial art". It comprises over 6,000 items ranging from handbills to typeface specimen sheets, lettering artwork to colour proofs and brochures. Donors included the companies commissioning and issuing work: significantly the Bauhaus; BBC; GPO and Shell-Mex, but also - among others - Bamberger & Hertz; Embru; Fortnum & Mason and United States Gypsum; as well as advertising agencies like Crawfords and Draeger. Work was also received from printers such as Gebruder Fretz and Hague & Gill, and typefoundries like Bauersche Giesserei and Deberny Peignot. The list of individual designers who responded to James’ request included Havinden; Moholy-Nagy; Sutnar and Tschischold. Categories of material include architecture, broadcasting, costume, interior design, motor industry, food and drink. The bulk of the collection consists of examples from the 1930s, especially 1936 - 1939, with a few items from the 1940s.

The collection is supplemented with material from the 1960s which the Library inherited from the Circulation Department of the Museum after its closure in 1978. The two groups of material stand as historic collections in their own right: the Jobbing Printing Collection is designated a 'closed collection'.

Descriptive line

Book, Civilisovaná žena: Jak se má kultivovaná žena oblékati = Zivilisierte Frau : Wie sich eine kultivierte Frau ankleiden soll, edited and designed by B. Horneková, Jan Vaněk and Zdeněk Rossmann, Brno, J. Vaněk, 1929. sv. 2 of Knihovny index

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Exhibited in 'The new line: works from the Jobbing Printing Collection’ held at the De La Warr Pavilion, Bexhill, 10 December 2016 to 12 March 2017
This exhibition of commercial print from the 1930s includes material designed by Serge Chermayeff, Edward McKnight Kauffer, Paul Nash, Eric Ravilious, Graham Sutherland and László Moholy-Nagy, alongside films by Len Lye commissioned by the General Post Office Film Unit and Churchman Cigarettes.
Europe in the 1930s underwent enormous social, political, cultural and technological change. To capture some of these changes through contemporary commercial print, Philip James at the National Art Library at the Victoria and Albert Museum developed the ‘Jobbing Printing Collection’. He requested samples of work from high-profile companies, artists and designers in Europe and North America, including items designed by members of the Bauhaus school, made for shops such as Fortnum & Mason, and for companies such as Elizabeth Arden, Shell and Imperial Airways.
The New Line presents a selection of items from the NAL’s collection, including lifestyle and trade magazines, beauty catalogues, tourism brochures and a sample chart for stockings. It highlights how the movement of people across borders, often escaping oppressive political regimes, led to the exchange of ideas and aesthetics, and the formation of new expressions of modernity. It also shows how interconnected art, design and industry were throughout the 1930s.
‘The acquisition and display of items of commercial printing positioned the Victoria and Albert Museum directly in the debate on modern design for the manufacture or ‘art and industry’ as it was often termed at the time.’
Alongside material from the V&A National Art Library’s Jobbing Printing Collection are items from private collections.
Researcher: Sandy Jones

Labels and date

From 'The New Line' De La Warr Pavilion, 2016-17

Civilisovaná žena (The Civilised Woman)
1929
Designed by Zdeněk Rossmann (b.1905 Ostrava; d.1984 Praha, Czechoslovakia)
This booklet, published by Jan Vaněk, accompanied an exhibition of the same name that presented a new way of dressing for women, focused on the trouser. The organisers of the exhibition – Bozena Hornekova, Zdeněk Rossman and Jan Vaněk – asserted that ‘the reform of women’s dress is one of the conditions of full liberation of women, as slaves of fashion cannot be any use in the progress of
On loan from the Victoria and Albert Museum [2016]

Materials

Ink; Paper; Material

Categories

Women's clothes; Fashion; National Art Library; Jobbing Printing

Production Type

Mass produced

Collection

National Art Library

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