Object Type
This elegant robe and petticoat are fine examples of a woman's formal daywear in the early 1760s. In cut, fabric and design they were the height of fashion.
Materials & Making
The pattern on the silk is hand-painted. The fabric was first sized with alum to make the paint adhere. Next the design was drawn freehand in ink or silverpoint. A variety of pigments were used, including white lead or a chalk ground for the highlights. The robe and petticoat are hand sewn with silk thread and trimmed with gathered strips of the hand-painted silk.
Time
The style and design of this ensemble exemplify the Rococo fashion in dress. The pale yellow silk painted in a variety of bright colours reflects the Rococo palette, while the scalloped sleeve cuffs and gathered robings create a decorative surface pattern. The robe is a sack back (a style of gown with the fabric at the back arranged in box pleats at the shoulders and falling loose to the floor with a slight train), and would have been worn with a wide square hoop under the petticoat.
Places
The silk was woven and painted in China. The width of the fabric and the use of coloured threads in the selvedge (the cloth edge) differ from European silks. The floral pattern shows the influence of Western design, indicating that it was made expressly for the European market.
Physical description
A sack back gown and petticoat of Chinese painted silk, with three fragments, two of which have been remade in the 19th century for fancy dress use.
[knot (motif)] A bow for fancy dress made with a ruffle of the original 18th century Chinese painted silk from the gown and late 19th c. green silk ribbon
[Decoration] A decoration for fancy dress made using a ruffle of Chinese painted silk from the gown, 19th c. green silk ribbon and covered wire
[Fragment] A piece of the same Chinese painted silk from the petticoat and gown, includes stitch marks and one selvedge
[Petticoat] The petticoat is gathered at the sides to fit over a square hoop and fastened with a tie at the waist. There are slits in the side seams for pocket access. A ruffle of painted silk decorates the front; this has been covered with the net and silk bobbin lce.
[Gown] The gown is a sack back style, open-fronted with a button stomacher. There are two double box pleats at the back. The gown is cut to be worn over square hoops, with openings in the side seams for pocket access. The bodice is lined with linen. The front is trimmed with pinked ruffled robings. There are triple sleeve ruffles on each sleeve. The gown is trimmed with silk bobbin lace around the sleeve ruffles and silk bobbin lace and woven silk net over the robings
Place of Origin
London, England (made)
China (silk, woven)
Date
1760-1765 (made)
1875-1899 (made)
1875-1899 (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Chinese painted silk, hand-sewn with silk thread, the gown and petticoat trimmed with woven silk net and silk bobbin lace, and two later decorations trimmed with 19th century green silk ribbon
Dimensions
[knot (motif)] Length: 13.0 cm, Width: 16.0 cm
[Decoration] Length: 38.0 cm, Width: 14.0 cm
[Fragment] Length: 72.1 cm approx., Width: 58.5 cm approx.
[Petticoat] Length: 107 cm approx.
[Gown] Length: 143 cm hem to shoulder, Width: 130 cm, Depth: 110 cm
Object history note
Owned and worn by Mrs. Garrick, née Eva Maria Veigel (born in Vienna, 1724, died in Hampton, near London, 1822), wife of the renowned actor David Garrick (born in Hereford, Hereford and Worcestershire, 1717, died in London, 1779)
Historical significance: This gown illustrates the prevailing English tastes of the 1760s in general and in particular of the Garricks. The V&A owns silver and a set of Indian bed-hangings once belonging to David Garrick and his wife. Her dress contributes an even more intimate perspective on their lifestyle.
[Gown] This dress was made for and worn by Mrs. Garrick (Eva Violetti 1724-1822), wife of the actor and stage manager, David Garrick (1717-1779).
Historical context note
This is a fine example of a woman's formal gown from the early 1760s. It illustrates the popularity of imported painted silks and the influence of Chinoiserie on dress. The width of the silk, 28&1/2 inches or 72.5 cm, and the use of coloured threads in the selvedge indicate that the silk was woven in China. It was most likely painted there, in a very westernised floral pattern. The sack back style for a wide square hoop indicates formal daywear. The buttoned stomacher and waist seam are typical of the 1760s while the triple sleeve ruffle is more typical of the 1750s and therefore reinforces its formality.
Descriptive line
Mrs Garrick's dress
Labels and date
British Galleries:
Eva Garrick was keenly aware of fashion and chose hand-painted Chinese silk for her dress and Chintz for her bed-hangings.These textiles complemented the European taste for Chinoiserie furnishings. The malachite green and cochineal red on yellow ground are also typical of contemporary Rococo dress, as is the triple sleeve ruffle. [27/03/2003]
Materials
Silk; Linen; Silk thread; Lace; Wire; Ribbon; Net; Bobbin lace; Chinese silk
Techniques
Painted; Weaving; Woven; Hand sewing; Hand sewn
Categories
British Galleries; Clothing; Fashion
Production Type
Unique
[Gown] Unique
Collection code
T&F
