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Dress fabric sample - Kilcardie

Kilcardie

  • Object:

    Dress fabric sample

  • Place of origin:

    Great Britain (made)

  • Date:

    1957 (designed and made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Ascher Ltd (maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Woven mohair and nylon

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Zika Ascher

  • Museum number:

    T.199-1988

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

In Europe after the Second World War, couturiers used novel lightweight mixes of wool, mohair and nylon for winter coats and dresses. They favoured screen-printed rayons and silks for summer day wear and shot organza for cocktail and evening dresses.

These different colourways of the same textile are from the archive of Zika Ascher, an innovative textile manufacturer who based himself in London after the annexation of Czechoslovakia in 1939. His wife designed textiles and their company became incorporated in 1942 (Ascher Ltd). Ascher developed a range of different fabrics for use at the top end of the market. He used samples such as these to show prospective clients his wares, and as a record of his output.

Physical description

Dress fabric of soft light-weight woven mohair and nylon. The weft is made of bouclé yarn which is much finer than the plain warp. The weave is dense and the textile has a firm handle although it is soft. Two different tones are used for the warp and weft, the latter being slightly lighter in colour than the former. The sample has one selvedge.

Place of Origin

Great Britain (made)

Date

1957 (designed and made)

Artist/maker

Ascher Ltd (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Woven mohair and nylon

Dimensions

Length: 15.5 in, Width: 20.75 in

Object history note

One of 10 samples T.199 to I-1988.

Descriptive line

Dress fabric of soft light-weight woven mohair and nylon 'Kilcardie', made by Ascher Ltd., Great Britain, 1957

Production Note

Designed and made for the first time in 1957. It is not known how long this textile was in production.

Attribution note: Ascher made for the top end of the market and his textiles were used for couture and high class ready-to wear garments. They were relatively expensive so probably did not percolate down to the mass market.

Materials

Mohair; Nylon

Techniques

Weaving

Categories

Textiles; Fashion; Clothing; Europeana Fashion Project

Production Type

Mass produced

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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