Evening Dress
late 1935 (designed)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Couturier clothing was custom-made for each individual client. The designs often included interior padding or subtle structuring to camouflage and correct defects. Shoulder pads could be adjusted to allow for natural unevenness, and busts could be gently enhanced with concealed padding and ruching. The process of fitting couture was conducted in strictest confidence.
This 1936 evening dress is by Elsa Schiaparelli, who was known for her shock tactics and love of surrealism. Even her simpler dresses often featured unexpected details. Here, Schiaparelli has taken the intimate padding over the breasts which would normally be concealed, and used it to decorate the outside of a severe brown crepe dress. The contrast between the modest high-necked gown and the overt reference to the wearer's bust is typical of Schiaparelli.
This 1936 evening dress is by Elsa Schiaparelli, who was known for her shock tactics and love of surrealism. Even her simpler dresses often featured unexpected details. Here, Schiaparelli has taken the intimate padding over the breasts which would normally be concealed, and used it to decorate the outside of a severe brown crepe dress. The contrast between the modest high-necked gown and the overt reference to the wearer's bust is typical of Schiaparelli.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Wool crêpe, gold braid, celluloid, impressed gilt metal |
| Brief description | Evening dress of woollen crêpe, designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, Paris, Winter 1935-36 |
| Physical description | Evening dress of brown woollen crêpe. Floor length, high necked with a gathered bodice, and a circular trapunto quilting over each breast. Six rows of gold braid encircle the slim and columnar full length skirt at regular intervals from the waist down. Fastens at the back with a gilt button on which is impressed a horse. No sleeves, but the shoulder is covered with a small gathered cape attached to the neckband. The bodice is open to the back of the waist and fastens from the waist to hip with a matching celluloid zip fastener. Grouped at the centre back. |
| Dimensions |
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| Production type | Haute couture |
| Marks and inscriptions | SCHIAPARELLI, 21 PLACE VENDOM PARIS HIVER 1935-36 (Stamped on a label stitched to the inside side seam) |
| Credit line | Given by Mrs P. Otway-Smithers |
| Object history | Worn by Mrs. Peter Otway-Smithers, who remembered this being one of the first dresses to have a zip fastener. Photo notes: Bodice front: Trapunto embroidery over the breasts; applied gold braid strips on skirt from waist down Back hem: gathered flounce at back. Label: Paris label hiver 35-36 CB Zipper: brown plastic zipper at CB. Probably Eclair zip Jan G. Reeder, Curator, The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art Taken May, 2011, Compiled September, 2011 |
| Production | Reason For Production: Commission |
| Subject depicted | |
| Summary | Couturier clothing was custom-made for each individual client. The designs often included interior padding or subtle structuring to camouflage and correct defects. Shoulder pads could be adjusted to allow for natural unevenness, and busts could be gently enhanced with concealed padding and ruching. The process of fitting couture was conducted in strictest confidence. This 1936 evening dress is by Elsa Schiaparelli, who was known for her shock tactics and love of surrealism. Even her simpler dresses often featured unexpected details. Here, Schiaparelli has taken the intimate padding over the breasts which would normally be concealed, and used it to decorate the outside of a severe brown crepe dress. The contrast between the modest high-necked gown and the overt reference to the wearer's bust is typical of Schiaparelli. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.36-1964 |
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| Record created | March 30, 2007 |
| Record URL |
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