Theatre Costume
1940 (designed)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
This costume was designed by Oliver Messel for Ferdinand, played by Alec Guinness, in Shakespeare's play The Tempest, at the Old Vic, 1940.
Although by 1940 wartime restrictions on materials had begun, there was still a store of pre-war fabrics and trimmings that could be drawn on. This, however, was no bar to Messel's imagination - he had always used materials creatively, knowing that, in the theatre, the real on stage often looks strangely artificial, whereas artifice looks 'real'. Thus instead of lace for the ruff, he used wired crin (a rigid synthetic mesh) edged with pipe cleaners formed into picots (decorative loops). The embroidery was done with coloured tinsels to mimic silks.
The colour of the costume sets Ferdinand apart from the other couriers, who are dressed in darker shades, befitting their age and station. The cool blue sets him apart - a symbol of his youth and lack of corruption, a calming colour linking him to elemental forces of sky and sea. However, a completely blue costume might be a little fey, so Messel has teamed the doublet with maroon breeches, which 'anchor' the costume.
Oliver Messel (1904-1978) was Britain's leading theatre designer throughout the 1930s, '40s and '50s, mastering every aspect of entertainment - ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue - as well as working in interior decoration and textile design. His lavish, painterly and romantic concepts were perfectly in tune with the times and earned him an international reputation. By 1960, however, that style was becoming unfashionable, and Messel gradually abandoned theatre and built a new career designing luxury homes in the Caribbean.
Although by 1940 wartime restrictions on materials had begun, there was still a store of pre-war fabrics and trimmings that could be drawn on. This, however, was no bar to Messel's imagination - he had always used materials creatively, knowing that, in the theatre, the real on stage often looks strangely artificial, whereas artifice looks 'real'. Thus instead of lace for the ruff, he used wired crin (a rigid synthetic mesh) edged with pipe cleaners formed into picots (decorative loops). The embroidery was done with coloured tinsels to mimic silks.
The colour of the costume sets Ferdinand apart from the other couriers, who are dressed in darker shades, befitting their age and station. The cool blue sets him apart - a symbol of his youth and lack of corruption, a calming colour linking him to elemental forces of sky and sea. However, a completely blue costume might be a little fey, so Messel has teamed the doublet with maroon breeches, which 'anchor' the costume.
Oliver Messel (1904-1978) was Britain's leading theatre designer throughout the 1930s, '40s and '50s, mastering every aspect of entertainment - ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue - as well as working in interior decoration and textile design. His lavish, painterly and romantic concepts were perfectly in tune with the times and earned him an international reputation. By 1960, however, that style was becoming unfashionable, and Messel gradually abandoned theatre and built a new career designing luxury homes in the Caribbean.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Parts | This object consists of 2 parts. (Some alternative part names are also shown below)
|
Brief description | Costume designed by Oliver Messel for Ferdinand in Shakespeare's The Tempest, Old Vic 1940. |
Dimensions | |
Credit line | Acquired with the support of the National Lottery Heritage Fund, Art Fund and the Friends of the V&A |
Object history | The costume was designed by Oliver Messel for Ferdinand, played by Alec Guinness, in Shakespeare's The Tempest at the Old Vic in 1940. Lord Snowdon, Oliver Messel's nephew, inherited Messel's theatre designs and other designs and artefacts. The designs were briefly stored in a disused chapel in Kensington Palace before being housed at the V&A from 1981 on indefinite loan. The V&A Theatre Museum purchased the Oliver Messel collection from Lord Snowdon in 2005. |
Summary | This costume was designed by Oliver Messel for Ferdinand, played by Alec Guinness, in Shakespeare's play The Tempest, at the Old Vic, 1940. Although by 1940 wartime restrictions on materials had begun, there was still a store of pre-war fabrics and trimmings that could be drawn on. This, however, was no bar to Messel's imagination - he had always used materials creatively, knowing that, in the theatre, the real on stage often looks strangely artificial, whereas artifice looks 'real'. Thus instead of lace for the ruff, he used wired crin (a rigid synthetic mesh) edged with pipe cleaners formed into picots (decorative loops). The embroidery was done with coloured tinsels to mimic silks. The colour of the costume sets Ferdinand apart from the other couriers, who are dressed in darker shades, befitting their age and station. The cool blue sets him apart - a symbol of his youth and lack of corruption, a calming colour linking him to elemental forces of sky and sea. However, a completely blue costume might be a little fey, so Messel has teamed the doublet with maroon breeches, which 'anchor' the costume. Oliver Messel (1904-1978) was Britain's leading theatre designer throughout the 1930s, '40s and '50s, mastering every aspect of entertainment - ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue - as well as working in interior decoration and textile design. His lavish, painterly and romantic concepts were perfectly in tune with the times and earned him an international reputation. By 1960, however, that style was becoming unfashionable, and Messel gradually abandoned theatre and built a new career designing luxury homes in the Caribbean. |
Bibliographic reference | Pinkham, Roger (ed.) Oliver Messel: an exhibition held at the Theatre Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum, 22 June - 30 September 1983. |
Collection | |
Accession number | S.498:1/2-2006 |
About this object record
Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.
You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.
Suggest feedback
You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.
Suggest feedback
Record created | March 29, 2007 |
Record URL |
Download as: JSON