Ensemble thumbnail 1
Ensemble thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Ensemble

2012 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Men's ensemble comprising a jacket, trousers, shirt, necktie, handkerchief and buttonhole pin.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 6 parts.

  • Jacket
  • Trousers
  • Shirt
  • Tie
  • Handkerchief
  • Pin
Materials and techniques
Vintage linen, cotton, silk; brass
Brief description
Men's ensemble comprising green linen herringbone jacket, orange cotton trousers, blue cotton shirt, woven silk tie, silk handkerchief and buttonhole pin; Rubinacci, Naples, 2012
Physical description
Men's ensemble comprising a jacket, trousers, shirt, necktie, handkerchief and buttonhole pin.
Dimensions
  • Chest circumference: 104cm (approx)
  • Waist circumference: 88cm (approx)
  • Hips circumference: 100cm (approx)
All measurements taken on mannequin.
Credit line
Given by Rubinacci, Naples
Object history
Reportedly, this was Luca Rubinacci's favourite jacket, it was worn by him to Pitti Uomo in 2012. The ensemble was given to the V&A in 2015 [2015/768].
Historical context
Rubinacci are a Naples-based men’s tailor and maker of ready-to-wear with a long history of involvement in the textile trade. The great-grandfather of the current head, also called Mariano Rubinacci, sold silk from a shop in Naples from the first part of the 19th century. The great nephew of the first Mariano, Gennaro Rubinacci, set up an atelier, London House, in Naples in the 1930s. His list of important Italian clients included the Princes of Savoy, actor Eduardo de Filippo, and actor-director Vittorio de Sica. Since the mid-1980s, the company has been managed by Gennaro’s son, Mariano, whose children Luca and Chiara are also involved in the family business. Luca Rubinacci manages the company’s ready-to-wear collections and is Rubinacci’s most recognisable model, appearing in men’s style blogs and in company advertisements. Chiara Rubinacci is manager of the company’s shop at Mount Street, Westminster. Today, the brand has stores in Naples, Rome, Milan, London, Paris, New York and Tokyo. Contemporary British customers include actor Terence Stamp, Prince Michael of Kent, and the artist Joel Shapiro

Rubinacci has developed a reputation for the quality of its materials. In addition to using top quality Italian and English wools and linens, the company can produce bespoke suits using a vast collection of ‘vintage’ defined as pre-1980s) cloth.
Production
The jacket was made up from cloth from Rubinacci's vast collection of 'vintage' (defined as pre-1980) textiles. The trousers are off-the-shelf from the Mount Street, London store, they were chosen to complement the jacket by Mariano and Luca Rubinacci.
Collection
Accession number
T.131:1 to 6-2015

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Record createdNovember 5, 2015
Record URL
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