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Oliver Messel headdress

Stage Property
1955 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

It is thought that this stylized leaf frond was part of the setting designed by Oliver Messel for André Ernest Grétry's 18th century opera, Zémire et Azor, which was performed by the Bath Festival Society in 1955. Designing sets does not just mean creating spatial structures, but creating small details, like this frond, which will enhance the period feel, add a sense of opulence or fantasy. That does not necessarily mean using opulent materials. In this case the sense of 18th century luxurious gilding is achieved by using wired gold braid, but, characteristically, Messel has overlaid it with an unexpected material - clear adhesive tape, which would have been a novelty in the mid-1950s. The flower centres are formed of chandelier drops, which were also frequently used in making Messel's costumes and accessories.

Oliver Messel (1904-1978) was Britain's leading theatre designer from the early 1930s to the mid 1950s, working in every aspect of entertainment - ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue - as well as in interior decoration and textile design. His lavish, painterly and romantic designs informed by period styles, were perfectly in tune with his times and earned him an international reputation. By 1960, however, Messel's style had become unfashionable, having no sympathy with the new 'kitchen sink' school of theatre. He increasingly concentrated on non-theatrical painting and designing and eventually retired to the Caribbean, where he began a new career designing and building highly idiosyncratic luxury villas.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleOliver Messel headdress (generic title)
Materials and techniques
wired gold braid, wire, gold tinsel ribbon, adhesive tape, chandelier drops, gold braid
Brief description
Stage property designed by Oliver Messel in the form of a stylised leaf frond of wired gold braid, the centres covered with adhesive tape. Probably used in Grétry's opera, Zémire et Azor, Bath Festival Society, Theatre Royal, Bath, 1955.
Physical description
Long stylized leaf frond, made of a strong wire spine, the lower part covered with gold tinsel ribbon and overlaid with adhesive tape (now cloudy). A few inches up the 'stem' are four wire 'shoots', similarly covered, ending in a bold faceted chandelier drop on a gold braid base with looped fringe edging. Above this are a series of graduated outline leaf shapes made of gold braid-covered wire; over the centre of each 'leaf', back and front, are strips of adhesive tape (now cloudy).
Dimensions
  • Height: 50cm (approximately)
  • Width: 19cm (approximately)
Production typeDesign
Credit line
Acquired with the support of the National Lottery Heritage Fund, Art Fund and the Friends of the V&A
Object history
Lord Snowdon, Oliver Messel's nephew, inherited Messel's remaining designs and artefacts (many designs were sold or given away during the artist's lifetime). The collection was briefly stored in a disused chapel in Kensington Palace before being placed on indefinite loan to the V&A Theatre Museum from 1981. The Oliver Messel Collection was purchased from Lord Snowdon in 2005 with the aid of the Heritage Lottery Fund, The Art Fund and the Friends of the V&A.
Production
Reason For Production: Commission
Summary
It is thought that this stylized leaf frond was part of the setting designed by Oliver Messel for André Ernest Grétry's 18th century opera, Zémire et Azor, which was performed by the Bath Festival Society in 1955. Designing sets does not just mean creating spatial structures, but creating small details, like this frond, which will enhance the period feel, add a sense of opulence or fantasy. That does not necessarily mean using opulent materials. In this case the sense of 18th century luxurious gilding is achieved by using wired gold braid, but, characteristically, Messel has overlaid it with an unexpected material - clear adhesive tape, which would have been a novelty in the mid-1950s. The flower centres are formed of chandelier drops, which were also frequently used in making Messel's costumes and accessories.

Oliver Messel (1904-1978) was Britain's leading theatre designer from the early 1930s to the mid 1950s, working in every aspect of entertainment - ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue - as well as in interior decoration and textile design. His lavish, painterly and romantic designs informed by period styles, were perfectly in tune with his times and earned him an international reputation. By 1960, however, Messel's style had become unfashionable, having no sympathy with the new 'kitchen sink' school of theatre. He increasingly concentrated on non-theatrical painting and designing and eventually retired to the Caribbean, where he began a new career designing and building highly idiosyncratic luxury villas.
Other number
ROT 8849 - TM Rotation Number
Collection
Accession number
S.535-2006

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Record createdFebruary 28, 2007
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