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Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Fashion, Room 40

Sweatshirt

late 2013 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Cotton sweatshirt with silk applique on the front of Divine, the American actor, singer and drag performer.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
cotton with silk appliqué
Brief description
James Long. Divine sweatshirt from John Waters collection, Autumn/Winter 2013.
Physical description
Cotton sweatshirt with silk applique on the front of Divine, the American actor, singer and drag performer.
Dimensions
  • Length: 65cm
  • Chest width: 62cm
  • Sleeve length: 68cm
Credit line
Given by Charlie Porter
Object history
This is part of a group of early 2010s menswear donated to the V&A by Charlie Porter, one of the most influential British menswear fashion journalists of the early 21st century. In 2000 Porter became deputy fashion editor for The Guardian, and since then, has worked as an associate editor for GQ and deputy editor for Fantastic Man. He currently writes for The Financial Times as their menswear critic, in addition to his freelance work, DJ-ing and maintaining an active blogging presence online. Porter is particularly known for his understanding of contemporary menswear and familiarity with developing streetwear and alternative trends.

At the time of the donation, Porter provided commentary on many of the pieces. He said of the three James Long pieces:

"Divine Sweatshirt/Biker jacket/Rain mac – these three items were from one of the best collections by James Long, an early pioneer of 21st century London menswear. I met James in his final year at the Royal College of Art, where I’d been asked to go meet the students to see what they had planned. Most of his class were polite and talented, but all wanted to get jobs in industry (this was way before it was even a possibility that London might have its own new young menswear movement). James had immediate passion, ambition, drive and determination to do his thing, and to make something happen. It was very natural to him, and it’s been a pleasure to watch that instinctive talent grow.

The theme of this collection was John Waters, most evident in the sweatshirt embroidered with the image of Divine. The biker with the knitted sleeves is a key piece for Long, whose mother owns a knitting shop in Kent – there’s always at least one hand-knit in his collections, and always an innovative use of wool. The rainmac I love, and is meant to look like the disgusting mac of some dirty old pervert – quite the most admirable inspiration for a garment ever."

- Daniel Milford-Cottam
20/05/2016
Subjects depicted
Collection
Accession number
T.101-2015

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Record createdAugust 6, 2015
Record URL
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