Jumpsuit

early 2013 (made)
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Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

Orange cotton jersey jumpsuit with silver zip front, elasticated waist, and short legs, zipped pockets at breast, legs and back.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Materials and Techniques
cotton jersey
Brief Description
Gosha Rubchinskiy. Orange short-legged jumpsuit, London. Spring-Summer 2013.
Physical Description
Orange cotton jersey jumpsuit with silver zip front, elasticated waist, and short legs, zipped pockets at breast, legs and back.
Dimensions
  • Length: 94cm
  • Chest width: 53cm
  • Sleeve length: 61cm
  • Waist width: 41cm
Credit line
Given by Charlie Porter
Object history
This is part of a group of early 2010s menswear donated to the V&A by Charlie Porter, one of the most Influential British menswear fashion journalists of the early 21st century. In 2000 Porter became deputy fashion editor for The Guardian, and since then, has worked as an associate editor for GQ and deputy editor for Fantastic Man. He currently writes for The Financial Times as their menswear critic, in addition to his freelance work, DJ-ing and maintaining an active blogging presence online. Porter is particularly known for his understanding of contemporary menswear and familiarity with developing streetwear and alternative trends.



At the time of the donation, Porter provided commentary on many of the pieces. He said of this piece:



"It has been such a thrill to see Rubchinskiy become one of the most important young designers in menswear today. I was first told about him by journalists who had been taken to Moscow fashion week in around 2006 (I can check the exact date). They came back talking about this incredible show, where young boys ran round a sportshall before throwing themselves at raised platforms to climb up and sit there with menace – the show exists on YouTube, if you search for his name with an incorrect spelling…



We invited Rubchinskiy to take part in the Fashion East Installations in ????, but by then it was clear his business was not viable. It was impossible to produce the clothing in Russia at any sort of reasonable price or even to find reliable factories. Add in the export duty, and there was no way he could have survived.



It was Adrian Joffe of Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market who gave Rubchinskiy his lifeline. They have a gentleman’s agreement: Rubchinskiy designs the clothes, and Joffe produces them from factories that Comme uses in Portugal. It means Rubchinskiy can create clothing that’s relatively affordable, and Dover Street Market is now responsible for the most extraordinary menswear cult.



This is an early piece from their collaboration, and shows Rubchinskiy’s tension with sexualised, slightly off sportswear. The colour is garish, the fit verges on inappropriate. I did actually wear it, though maybe not in the way they would have hoped (it was an alien fancy dress party at a salubrious venue in London Fields called The Shed – basically a private shed at the bottom of Jonny Woo’s boyfriend Colin’s garden that’s been soundproofed and fitted with a light up dancefloor so it can hold all-day/all-night parties)."



- Daniel Milford-Cottam

20/05/2016
Collection
Accession Number
T.100-2015

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record createdAugust 6, 2015
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