Transfer No. 15155 thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
Request to view at the Prints & Drawings Study Room, level C , Case T, Shelf 5, Box G

Transfer No. 15155

Embroidery Transfer
early 20th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Deighton Brothers Ltd of Clapton, London, was established by textile designer William James Deighton in the mid-1800s. By 1870 he was the first commercial manufacture of embroidery transfers in England. His father, also William Deighton, was a surgeon and apothecary and had developed a heat-activated printing ink. The younger William Deighton modified the 'prick and pounce' method employed by tailors so that one could transfer inked patterns quickly and easily at home by using a domestic iron.

The early transfer designs were made in the following way: an idea was sketched in pencil before being worked up into a pattern. Using a specially invented perforating machine, the pattern was pricked through to three or four sheets of paper, which then acted as stencils. One of the stencils was taken a laid on tissue-weight paper. The special ink was forced through the stencil holes onto the tissue and allowed to dry. In most pre-1950s transfers, therefore, the apparently continuous lines are, in fact, comprised of a series of dots. After that date, developments allowed the use of a printing press to produce the patterns.

Deighton was involved in a legal dispute with rival Manchester-based designer William Briggs over who had invented the perforation technique for transfers. Briggs applied for a patent in 1874, but evidence shows Deighton was selling his transfers from 1870; at that time Briggs was using block printing rather than the perforating machine.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleTransfer No. 15155 (manufacturer's title)
Materials and techniques
Heat-activated yellow printing ink on tissue-weight paper
Brief description
Embroidery transfer by Deighton Brothers Ltd, transfer design no. 15155, probably for a table centre, heat-activated printing ink on tissue-weight paper, London, early 20th century
Physical description
Transfer pattern, probably for a table centre, depicting carnations within a delicate scrollwork border. The pattern is printed in yellow heat-activated ink on tissue paper.
Dimensions
  • Height: 50.6cm
  • Width: 50.7cm
Production typeMass produced
Marks and inscriptions
  • '15155' (Numbered in yellow heat-activated printing ink)
  • 'DEIGHTON'S / MADE IN ENGLAND / APPROVED TRANSFERS' (Stamped in purple ink)
Credit line
Given by Anne Symons
Subject depicted
Summary
Deighton Brothers Ltd of Clapton, London, was established by textile designer William James Deighton in the mid-1800s. By 1870 he was the first commercial manufacture of embroidery transfers in England. His father, also William Deighton, was a surgeon and apothecary and had developed a heat-activated printing ink. The younger William Deighton modified the 'prick and pounce' method employed by tailors so that one could transfer inked patterns quickly and easily at home by using a domestic iron.

The early transfer designs were made in the following way: an idea was sketched in pencil before being worked up into a pattern. Using a specially invented perforating machine, the pattern was pricked through to three or four sheets of paper, which then acted as stencils. One of the stencils was taken a laid on tissue-weight paper. The special ink was forced through the stencil holes onto the tissue and allowed to dry. In most pre-1950s transfers, therefore, the apparently continuous lines are, in fact, comprised of a series of dots. After that date, developments allowed the use of a printing press to produce the patterns.

Deighton was involved in a legal dispute with rival Manchester-based designer William Briggs over who had invented the perforation technique for transfers. Briggs applied for a patent in 1874, but evidence shows Deighton was selling his transfers from 1870; at that time Briggs was using block printing rather than the perforating machine.
Collection
Accession number
E.223-2015

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Record createdJune 5, 2015
Record URL
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