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Dress and coat
  • Dress and coat
    Heim, Jacques, born 1899 - died 1967
  • Enlarge image

Dress and coat

  • Place of origin:

    London (garment, made)
    France (materials, probably, made)

  • Date:

    1964-1965 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Heim, Jacques, born 1899 - died 1967 (designer)
    R.L. Salmon Ltd (maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silk lined with silk, and silk organza embroidered with beads

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Mrs Naomi Robins.

  • Museum number:

    T.136:1, 2-1998

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

This mid-1960s cocktail ensemble by Jacques Heim is typical of its date. The crisply cut coat and short dress in stiff black silk are smart and quite conservative. Cocktail parties were a popular and fashionable social entertainment, and black was a safe choice for such occasions. Complicated Y-shaped seams on the dress, beaded organza sleeves, and ruched coat-buttons make the outfit visually interesting.

Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes were sold by high end London boutiques.

Physical description

Silk dress and coat.

Place of Origin

London (garment, made)
France (materials, probably, made)

Date

1964-1965 (made)

Artist/maker

Heim, Jacques, born 1899 - died 1967 (designer)
R.L. Salmon Ltd (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Silk lined with silk, and silk organza embroidered with beads

Object history note

This is one of a group of Heim garments donated in 1998 along with design books and fabric swatches, some of which directly relate to the garments.

They were donated by the daughter of the owners of R.L. Salmon Ltd. This was a London dress manufacturer who acquired exclusive rights to make and sell the couturier Jacques Heim's designs in London from 1957. In most instances, R.L. Salmon Ltd used the French fabrics that Heim recommended, and Heim always approved the end product.

This design could not be found in any of the five pattern books available, which were Spring and Autumn 1966, Spring and Autumn 1967, and Autumn 1968. It was probably made before 1966, as the style does not relate to other garments in the design books.

Came with archival grouping of Heim garments and design books/swatches dating from Spring 1966 to Autumn 1968. Only book missing is Spring 1968, but this is more likely to be Autumn 1964 or 1965 as it is not a very 'Spring' design.

Descriptive line

Silk cocktail dress and coat, designed by Jacques Heim, made by R.L. Salmon Ltd., London, 1964-1965

Production Note

Reason For Production: Retail

Materials

Silk (textile); Beads; Organza

Techniques

Lined; Embroidered

Categories

Fashion; Formal wear; Women's clothes; Embroidery; Europeana Fashion Project

Production Type

Model

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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