Fougere
Evening Dress
1967 (made)
1967 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Many formal evening gowns in the 1960s used stiff, sculptural fabrics. This crisp satin full-length evening dress was designed by Jacques Heim for Autumn 1967. The heavily beaded neckline is in the form of an inverted A, a subtle witty comment on the A-line silhouette of the dress. A long gown in plain fabric in the Museum's collection retailed at 42 guineas (see T.141-1998), but beading added further expense. This specific design, 'Fougere', retailed at 60 guineas.
Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end London boutiques. This design had a wholesale price of 36 guineas.
Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end London boutiques. This design had a wholesale price of 36 guineas.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Title | Fougere (assigned by artist) |
| Materials and techniques | Silk satin grosgrain gabardine with beading, lined, metal |
| Brief description | Full length evening dress 'Fougere' in silk satin grosgrain gabardine, designed by Jacques Heim, made by R.L. Salmon Ltd, London, 1967 |
| Physical description | Full length evening sleeveless dress in pink silk satin grosgrain gabardine, trapeze shape, and with a deep inverted-A neckline edged with wide beaded bands and crossing band of beading, front and back. Cream lining. Back metal zipper. |
| Dimensions |
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| Production type | Model |
| Marks and inscriptions |
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| Credit line | Given by Mrs Naomi Robins. |
| Object history | This is one of a group of Heim garments donated in 1998 along with design books and fabric swatches, some of which directly relate to the garments. They were donated by the daughter of the owners of R.L. Salmon Ltd. This was a London dress manufacturer who acquired exclusive rights to make and sell the couturier Jacques Heim's designs in London from 1957. In most instances, R.L. Salmon Ltd used the French fabrics that Heim recommended, and Heim always approved the end product. The fabrics for this particular design are in the design book dated Autumn 1967, attached to the sketch for "Fougere", number 3239. A price list also exists; this dress was available at a wholesale price of 36 guineas, 10 shillings, with tax of 3 guineas, 1 shilling, and suggested retail of 60 guineas |
| Production | Autumn 1967 Attribution note: From the Autumn 1967 collection |
| Summary | Many formal evening gowns in the 1960s used stiff, sculptural fabrics. This crisp satin full-length evening dress was designed by Jacques Heim for Autumn 1967. The heavily beaded neckline is in the form of an inverted A, a subtle witty comment on the A-line silhouette of the dress. A long gown in plain fabric in the Museum's collection retailed at 42 guineas (see T.141-1998), but beading added further expense. This specific design, 'Fougere', retailed at 60 guineas. Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end London boutiques. This design had a wholesale price of 36 guineas. |
| Other number | 3239 - design number |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.139-1998 |
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| Record created | February 9, 2007 |
| Record URL |
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