Not currently on display at the V&A

Macao

Cocktail Suit
1966 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This Jacques Heim evening ensemble for Spring 1966 shows the new informality in evening dress. The long A-line skirt and straight-cut jacket in heavily slubbed black wild silk are simple and understated. The sleeveless evening top provides contrast, in cream silk boldly decorated with large diamantés. The three elements can be worn together or incorporated into other ensembles with different jackets, skirts and tops.

Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R. L. Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end London boutiques.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Jacket
  • Skirt
  • Blouse
TitleMacao (assigned by artist)
Materials and techniques
Slubbed silk with diamanté embroidery and lined, metal
Brief description
Short jacket and skirt 'Macao' in slubbed silk, and blouse, designed by Jacques Heim, made by R.L. Salmon Ltd, London, 1966
Physical description
Short jacket and skirt in slubbed silk, and blouse. Silk with diamanté embroidery.
Production typeModel
Credit line
Given by Mrs Naomi Robins.
Object history
This is one of a group of Heim garments donated in 1998 along with design books and fabric swatches, some of which directly relate to the garments.

They were donated by the daughter of the owners of R.L. Salmon Ltd. This was a London dress manufacturer who acquired exclusive rights to make and sell the couturier Jacques Heim's designs in London from 1957. In most instances, R.L. Salmon Ltd used the French fabrics that Heim recommended, and Heim always approved the end product.

This particular design is in the design book dated Spring 1966, ID'd as 'Macao', number 3299. The sketch is a quick pencil impression on rough paper, original croquis missing.
Production
Spring 1966

Attribution note: From the Spring 1966 collection
Reason For Production: Retail
Summary
This Jacques Heim evening ensemble for Spring 1966 shows the new informality in evening dress. The long A-line skirt and straight-cut jacket in heavily slubbed black wild silk are simple and understated. The sleeveless evening top provides contrast, in cream silk boldly decorated with large diamantés. The three elements can be worn together or incorporated into other ensembles with different jackets, skirts and tops.

Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R. L. Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end London boutiques.
Other number
3299 - design number
Collection
Accession number
T.137:1 to 3-1998

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Record createdFebruary 9, 2007
Record URL
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