Aubepine thumbnail 1
Aubepine thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Aubepine

Ensemble
1967 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This ensemble from Jacques Heim's Spring 1967 collection is called 'Aubepine'. The straight-cut dress in heavy white lace is lined in blue chiffon and silk. The blue silk high-waisted coat is sleeveless and has a cutaway front to show the lace dress. A young woman attending a society wedding might have worn a formal day outfit like this. It was worn with a dramatic blue rose hat also in the Museum's collection (see T.133:1 to 3-1998).

Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end London boutiques.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Dress
  • Coat
TitleAubepine (assigned by artist)
Materials and techniques
Silk chiffon and lace, lined with silk, metal
Brief description
Short silk chiffon dress 'Aubepine' with lace and high waisted sleeveless coat, designed by Jacques Heim, made by R.L. Salmon Ltd, London, 1967
Physical description
Short silk chiffon dress with white lace, and high waisted sleeveless coat.
Dimensions
  • Shoulder to hem length: 99cm
Dress and coat both same length
Production typeModel
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'JACQUES HEIM / PARIS LONDON' (Label in neck of garments)
  • 'MADE IN LONDON' (Sideways along edge of label in garments)
Credit line
Given by Mrs Naomi Robins.
Object history
This is one of a group of Heim garments donated in 1998 along with design books and fabric swatches, some of which directly relate to the garments.

They were donated by the daughter of the owners of R.L. Salmon Ltd. This was a London dress manufacturer who acquired exclusive rights to make and sell the couturier Jacques Heim's designs in London from 1957. In most instances, R.L. Salmon Ltd used the French fabrics that Heim recommended, and Heim always approved the end product.

This particular design is in the design book dated Spring 1967, ID'd as model number 3, "Aubepine", number 3198.

There is also a hat by Rose Vernier in the collection which accompanies this ensemble (T.133:1-1998).
Production
Spring 1967

Attribution note: From the Spring 1967 collection
Reason For Production: Retail
Summary
This ensemble from Jacques Heim's Spring 1967 collection is called 'Aubepine'. The straight-cut dress in heavy white lace is lined in blue chiffon and silk. The blue silk high-waisted coat is sleeveless and has a cutaway front to show the lace dress. A young woman attending a society wedding might have worn a formal day outfit like this. It was worn with a dramatic blue rose hat also in the Museum's collection (see T.133:1 to 3-1998).

Jacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end London boutiques.
Other numbers
  • 3198 - design number
  • 3 - Model number
Collection
Accession number
T.135:1, 2-1998

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Record createdFebruary 9, 2007
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