This evening coat is a typical example of three-dimensional embroidered decoration applied to a very simply cut coat, as designed and made in Balenciaga's couture houses in late 1950s and 1960s. Although most of the clothes sold in Madrid echoed the pioneering designs shown in Paris each season, this particular piece seems to have been particular to the Spanish house. Originally, it had no ostrich feather trim around the sleeves, the only decorative edging being a scalloped finish like that round the front and neck edge.
This evening coat belonged to the film star Ava Gardner who died in 1991. It has a label with the word EISA sewn in at the back of the neck. EISA was the label under which Balenciaga's three houses in Spain (Barcelona, Madrid and San Sebastian) traded. Ava Gardner lived in Madrid for a number of years, and is known to have socialised in the infamous cafe Chicote as well as Balenciaga's premises across the road at Gran Via 9.
Physical description
Cream-coloured full-length evening coat with three-quarter length sleeves which are trimmed with pinky ostrich feathers. The net base is covered in flowers and 'grapes' which have been tamboured into place giving the surface a three dimensional quality. The edges of the coat (neck, front opening and hemline) have a scalloped edge. The net outer layer is attached to a silk organza lining. The designer's label is sewn on behind the neck - it is the white version of the EISA label.
Place of Origin
Madrid, Spain (probably, made)
Paris, France (designed)
Date
1960s (made)
Artist/maker
Cristóbal Balenciaga, born 1895 - died 1972 (designer)
Eisa (designed for)
Materials and Techniques
Silk organza, ostrich feathers and net with applied pattern of net rouleaux
Marks and inscriptions
'Eisa'
Object history note
Registered File number 1990/1420.
Given to the museum after Hollywood actress Ava Gardner's death by Mrs Myra Pearce in her memory; along with four other evening gowns.
The coat carries a label, EISA. This was the label under which Balenciaga worked in Spain; the client resided in Madrid and was known to move in social circles that congregated around the cafe Chicote (opposite Balenciaga's premises) in Madrid.
Historical significance: Significant because of association with a known wearer who clearly adapted the coat from the original design by adding a new trim, and because it seems to be an example of a garment (or textile) that was peculiar to the Madrid house of Balenciaga. In the Archives Balenciaga in Paris, no example of exactly the same design is available.
Historical context note
Cristóbal Balenciaga was one of the major couturier of the 20th century, especially post war in the 1950s and 1960s. He was unusual among couturiers for running a house in Paris (from 1937) and three houses in Spain (in Barcelona, Madrid and San Sebastian). The houses in Spain probably benefited from the influx of Americans after the War when the Hollywood film industry discovered the benefits of using Spain as a filming location. Ava Gardner was one American who became devoted to Spain, moving to Madrid in the early 1950s and living there until moving to London, where she lived in South Kensington not far from the V&A, a museum she appreciated. She ordered clothes from both Balenciaga's Paris house and Madrid house. Those from the latter would have cost her substantially less then those from former.
This coat is probably that worn in a photograph published in Miller (1993 and 2007) although the coat in that photograph does not have an ostrich trim round the sleeves.
Descriptive line
Cream-coloured full-length evening coat, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga for Eisa, designed in Paris, probably made in Madrid, 1960s
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Miller, Lesley. Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972). London, 1993, p. 84, pl. 51.
Photograph of Ava Gardner wearing the coat without the ostrich feather trim on the sleeves.
Richard Nott. Kimonos, Couture and other Clothing. Recent paintings. Browse and Darby, Cork Street, London, 2007, Plate I and frontcover.
Used as inspiration for a painting by Richard Nott
Associated names
Gardner, Ava Lavinia
Production Note
Attribution note: designed in Paris, made in Madrid.
Materials
Silk (textile); Net (textile); Organza; Ostrich feathers
Techniques
Applied work; Lined; Tambouring
Subjects depicted
Flowers; Grapes
Categories
Embroidery; Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
