Brown wool skirt suit, designed by Digby Morton, 1950

A light-weight mid-brown twill wool skirt suit lined with ginger brown rayon. The single-breasted jacket, which has a chestnut brown silk velvet collar and wide wool revers, extends to the hips and closes with four chunky two-tone coffee coloured plastic buttons. It has a T-shaped yoke whose outline is reflected in tucks facing up to the neck and into the body over the bust. The shaped waistline is also defined by an upward-facing tuck but, at the back, it is interrupted over the spine, skilfully emphasising the hollow of the back. The long sleeves are finished with a button at the cuff. Top-stitched, slightly flared patch pockets below the waist echo the line of the jacket. The co-ordinating skirt has a pair of pockets and tucks at the front and a plain back. The hem of the skirt has been shortened by 6.9cm.

Given by Mrs Marigold Haworth

This skirt suit was worn by Katie Gandy for her marriage to James Foley in 1950. She continued to wear it for some time afterwards. Gandy was a fashion and beauty journalist who worked for Phyllis Morton, Digby Morton's wife, after the Second World War at Women and Beauty and then at Woman's Own. She was often given clothes by Digby Morton.

Digby Morton was one of London's leading couturiers from 1929-1957. He specialised in tailored day wear and was known for his knowledge and sensitive use of wool, and cleverly designed suits and blouses that were practical, feminine and sensitive to fashion. This suit illustrates how he used the placement of seams, decorative details and pockets to emphasise the line and proportions of an ensemble, and to vary the way the light fell on the fabric.
Unlike many of the Museum's other couture pieces from this period, the suit was worn by a working woman. Katie Gandy first wore it for her wedding James Foley in 1950 and continued to do so for some time afterwards. Gandy was a fashion and beauty journalist working for Digby Morton's wife, Phyllis Panting, first at Women and Beauty and then at Woman's Own.

T.150:1,2-2014