Brooch of enamelled gold, opals, moonstones and rock crystal, by Henry Wilson, England c.1912; with a green leather case lined with cream velvet and satin.

A deep pink enamelled rose framed by a raised circle of banded enamel from which hang three long pendants. The rose has five curling outer petals within which are five smaller petals, five pearlescent enamelled stamens (two of which are original, the others replicated by V&A Conservation in April 2015), and a central moonstrone set in a green and white enamelled collar. Around the base of the rose are five green enamelled sepals which continue across the back of the flower, meeting at the centre. The circular frame is enamelled with alternating bands of a pearlescent gold colour and opaque white decorated with a sprig of green foliage. From the lower edge of the frame hang three drops, each one comprising a bead of opal, a bar of tapering, faceted rock crystal, and an oval moonstone. These are set in gold enamelled with a pattern of alternating green and white squares, and a tiny flower made from five gold granules decorates the loop connecting the rock crystal and the moonstone. At the back of the brooch is a loop for the piece to be worn as a pendant and a gold brooch pin. The back of the rose is visible through the framework of the brooch, as is the reverse of the circular frame with its green counter enamel. The rectangular green leather case is lined with cream velvet and has a cream lid satin inscribed in gold 'HENRY WILSON,/ PLATT,/ KENT.

Given by John and Jim Howden and Marion Gladwell in memory of Isobel Howden (née Wilson)

The brooch was made for Alice Cooper, the mother of Winifred Cooper who was the second wife of Henry Wilson's younger brother Edgar. Edgar Wilson and Alice Cooper married in Iran on 10 December 1912 and this was Edgar's gift to his mother in law. A photograph of her wearing it appears in Cyndy Manton's book 'Henry Wilson. Practical idealist' (Cambridge 2009).

Henry Wilson's jewellery is distinguished by its skilful modelling, intricate three-dimensional structure, unusual and subtly coloured stones and vibrant enamelling. This exquisite rose jewel is a very fine example and illustrates all these characteristics. It belonged to Alice Cooper the mother of Henry Wilson's younger brother Edgar's second wife, and is believed to have been made as Edgar's gift to his mother-in-law at the time of their wedding in Tehran in December 1912.

M.13:1,2-2014