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Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Brooch

1994 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Jacqueline Ryan has brought a distinctive and very sensitive approach to contemporary making in gold. Her forms are mostly derived from the natural world, and are subtly built up through the exacting creation and arranging of tiny repeating elements.

This brooch was the first she made entirely of gold after graduating from the Royal College, London (where she had worked principally in aluminium). Each of the tiny leaf-shaped forms is individually pierced, forged and soldered. She comments ‘I remember soldering the piece (with a naked flame) multiple times to make sure the solder had flowed and found it a very challenging solder to do for a first brooch’.

This brooch is one of forty-five pieces of jewellery given to the V&A from the collection of the late Louise Klapisch.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Gold
Brief description
Circular brooch, gold, by Jacqueline Ryan, Italy 1994
Physical description
Circular brooch made of individually pierced, forged and soldered petals, radiating out from a central six petals to form a large flower. The back has a convex disc of plain hand-beaten gold.
Dimensions
  • Diameter: 60mm
  • Depth: 18mm
Marks and inscriptions
Jacqui Ryan '94 750 384PD (? French gold eagle mark on pin)
Credit line
The Louise Klapisch Collection, given by Suzanne Selvi
Summary
Jacqueline Ryan has brought a distinctive and very sensitive approach to contemporary making in gold. Her forms are mostly derived from the natural world, and are subtly built up through the exacting creation and arranging of tiny repeating elements.

This brooch was the first she made entirely of gold after graduating from the Royal College, London (where she had worked principally in aluminium). Each of the tiny leaf-shaped forms is individually pierced, forged and soldered. She comments ‘I remember soldering the piece (with a naked flame) multiple times to make sure the solder had flowed and found it a very challenging solder to do for a first brooch’.

This brooch is one of forty-five pieces of jewellery given to the V&A from the collection of the late Louise Klapisch.
Collection
Accession number
M.44-2014

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Record createdJune 11, 2014
Record URL
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