Necklace, enamelled gold and rose quartz, designed and made by Ralph Bakker, Netherlands, 2008

A chain of delicate gold circles, arranged in pairs and linked together by the larger wishbone-shaped elements of gold enamelled in either grey-blue or white. There is an outer line of wishbones and an inner one, and a third line in between at right angles which link the two rows of gold circles. Thus each wishbone has two circles passing through the hole near its upper edge, and each gold circle has three wishbones attached. A large faceted rose-quartz drop forms the central pendant; at the back the clasp consists of two flat rings of gold, one of which is cut to allow the other to pass through it. The enamelled wishbones create a fringe-like effect and the linked construction, where nothing is fixed in one position, gives a sense of movement and flexibility.

The Louise Klapisch Collection, given by Suzanne Selvi

Ralph Bakker uses traditional materials and techniques to create work of great delicacy, complexity and beauty. Each of the necklace’s repeating wish-bone forms is cut from a flat sheet of gold which is then enamelled. The ingenious inter-linking of this simple form creates structure, giving the effect of a dense and luxuriant, yet very light, fringe.

This necklace is one of forty-five pieces of jewellery given to the V&A from the collection of the late Louise Klapisch.

M.18-2014