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  • Place of origin:

    India (woven)

  • Date:

    1878-1882 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:


  • Materials and Techniques:

    Woven wool lined with quilted silk satin, trimmed with twisted silk and chenille fringe, and passementerie motifs

  • Credit Line:

    Given by TRH The Duke and Duchess of Gloucester

  • Museum number:


  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

By the 1870s Kashmir shawls had been in fashion for nearly a century. The advent of slimmer fashions and the bustled skirt meant that shawls became outdated. Some were transformed into figure-hugging mantles or dolmans, lavishly trimmed and lined to match the colours of the shawl pattern.

Ornate trimmings positioned on the back of this dolman accentuate its bustled silhouette and complement the paisley patterned textile. Rich passementerie such as tassles, rosettes, braid, cords, tufts, and fringe frequently embellished women's fashionable dress, creating luxurious effects resembling the trimmings found on curtains and upholstery.

These trimmings took hours of highly skilled work to complete.The example illustrated here incorporates three long pointed wooden moulds wrapped in blue floss silk. These are then decorated with a multicoloured cord, which must have been made specifically for this garment, as the colours harmonize exactly.

Physical description

Woman's mantle or dolman of woven wool lined with quilted silk satin and trimmed with a twisted silk and chenille fringe. At each side of the back waist there is a passementerie motif, each with three suspended passementerie moulds.

Place of Origin

India (woven)


1878-1882 (made)



Materials and Techniques

Woven wool lined with quilted silk satin, trimmed with twisted silk and chenille fringe, and passementerie motifs

Production Note

Woven in India for the European market


Wool; Silk satin; Silk thread; Chenille; Passementerie


Weaving; Quilting


Fashion; Clothing; Textiles


Textiles and Fashion Collection

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