Not currently on display at the V&A

Zémire et Azor

Theatre Costume
1955 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Great Britain’s leading theatre designer from the early 1930s to the mid 1950s, Oliver Messel (1904-1978) won international acclaim for his lavish, painterly and poetic designs informed by period styles. His work spans ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue. Messel’s traditional style of theatre design became unfashionable from the mid 1950s onwards, and he increasingly concentrated on painting, interior and textile design, including designing luxury homes in the Caribbean.

Grétry’sZémire et Azor (1771) is based La Chausée’s comedy, Amour par amour (1742), a variant on Charles Perrault’s fairy tale Beauty and the Beast (1697). This production was first performed at the Bath Theatre Royal as part of the 1955 Bath Festival. Messel's colourful, elegant and fantastic costumes and sets complemented the otherworldliness of the story.

Ali, Zander's servant, provides much of the comedy in the opera. Messel made the colourful turban from a length of cream cloth, hand stitched into folds and stiffened with white paint, and adorned with feathers.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleZémire et Azor (generic title)
Materials and techniques
cloth, felt, thread, paint, feathers, brown tape
Brief description
Headdress by Oliver Messel for Ali in Grétry's opera Zémire et Azor, Bath Festival Society 1955
Physical description
Headdress for Ali by Oliver Messel for a Bath Festival Society production of Zémire et Azor, 1955. A turban made from cream cloth painted white and hand-stitched into folds. An orange felt stick protrudes out of the top, along with yellow-green and black feathers. The turban is reinforced on the underside with brown tape.
Dimensions
  • Height: 26cm
  • Diameter: 23cm
  • Circumference: 80cm
Production typeDesign
Credit line
Acquired with the support of the National Lottery Heritage Fund, Art Fund and the Friends of the V&A
Object history
Zémire et Azor, an opera (1771) in four acts composed by Grétry with libretto by Marmontell from La Chausée’s comedy, Amour par amour (1742), a variant on Charles Perrault’s fairy tale Beauty and the Beast (1697). Oliver Messel’s production was first performed at the Bath Festival, Theatre Royal, Bath, on 11 May 1955. It was directed by Anthony Besch with choreography by William Chappel and featured Huguette Boulangeot as Zémire and Michael Sénécal as Azor.

Lord Snowdon, Oliver Messel's nephew, inherited Messel's theatre designs and other designs and artefacts. The designs were briefly stored in a disused chapel in Kensington Palace before being housed at the V&A from 1981 on indefinite loan. The V&A Theatre Museum purchased the Oliver Messel collection from Lord Snowdon in 2005.
Production
The turban is very similar to the turban worn by Ali in one of Messel's costume designs for this character.

Reason For Production: Commission
Summary
Great Britain’s leading theatre designer from the early 1930s to the mid 1950s, Oliver Messel (1904-1978) won international acclaim for his lavish, painterly and poetic designs informed by period styles. His work spans ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue. Messel’s traditional style of theatre design became unfashionable from the mid 1950s onwards, and he increasingly concentrated on painting, interior and textile design, including designing luxury homes in the Caribbean.

Grétry’sZémire et Azor (1771) is based La Chausée’s comedy, Amour par amour (1742), a variant on Charles Perrault’s fairy tale Beauty and the Beast (1697). This production was first performed at the Bath Theatre Royal as part of the 1955 Bath Festival. Messel's colourful, elegant and fantastic costumes and sets complemented the otherworldliness of the story.

Ali, Zander's servant, provides much of the comedy in the opera. Messel made the colourful turban from a length of cream cloth, hand stitched into folds and stiffened with white paint, and adorned with feathers.
Associated object
S.343-2006 (Design)
Bibliographic reference
Pinkham, Roger (ed.) Oliver Messel: an exhibition held at the Theatre Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum, 22 June - 30 September 1983. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1983. 200p., ill ISBN 0905209508)
Other number
ROT 8851 - TM Rotation Number
Collection
Accession number
S.511-2006

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Record createdOctober 17, 2006
Record URL
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