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Habit d'Hyver

  • Object:

    Print

  • Place of origin:

    Paris (made)

  • Date:

    1678 (published)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Le Pautre, Jean, born 1618 - died 1682 (printmaker)
    Jean Berain the elder, born 1638 - died 1711 (designer)
    Mercure Galant (publisher)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Etching and engraving

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Antony Griffiths and Judy Rudoe

  • Museum number:

    E.267-2014

  • Gallery location:

    Europe 1600-1815, Room 5, The Friends of the V&A Gallery, case CA2

This is one of four costume plates (two male and two female) that appeared in the January 1678 Extraordinaire of the French monthly journal Mercure Galant. They were accompanied by descriptive text. The plates, as the descriptive text suggested, informed tailors and merchants as well as readers in up-to-date fashions of the court. The prints were made by printmaker Jean Le Pautre (1618-1682), based on designs by Jean Bérain (1637-1711). Bérain was pre-eminent designer draughtsmen of the seventeenth century who was designer to Louis XIV from 1674 and whose work defined the Louis XIV style.

Mercure Galant was a periodical founded by Jean Donneau de Visé (1638-1710) and appeared monthly from 1677. It was accompanied three times a year between 1678 and 1692 by a supplement entitled Exttraordinaire, which described events and new fashions. Part of the success of the journal lay in its method of presentation, which was in the form od a letter addresses to a fictional correspondent who represented the largely femaile reading public. This provided an intimate forum in which new fashions could be discussed. The Mercure Galant was the first periodical to treat fashion as a subject worthy of discussion.

Physical description

Costume plate of man wearing a shoulder-length wig, hat decorated with a ribbon, cape with edged pattern, patterned cravat and doublet with fringed cuffs, purse, pantaloons and shoes.

Place of Origin

Paris (made)

Date

1678 (published)

Artist/maker

Le Pautre, Jean, born 1618 - died 1682 (printmaker)
Jean Berain the elder, born 1638 - died 1711 (designer)
Mercure Galant (publisher)

Materials and Techniques

Etching and engraving

Marks and inscriptions

Habit d'Hyver
Top left corner

Tour de plumes a / deux pointes / Castor gris blanc / Perruque noüée / Colet rond Brodé / Manteau de drap de / Hollande couleur de / feu doublé de velou- / rs noir ou plûche / de couleur / Manchon de plu- / che de couleur / Iuste-au-corps gris / brodé de soye de cou / leur doublé de / satin et la veste de / mesme / Broderie plate- / d'or et d argent / Caons a la Royale / brodez coupez en / botte tenantau bas
right side

Souliers noirs lustrez et lizerez d'or
Across bottom

Dimensions

Height: 12.8 cm, Width: 10.1 cm

Object history note

Gift of Antony Griffiths and Judy Rudoe

Descriptive line

Etching and engraving. Costume plate by Jean Lepautre after Jean Bérain. Habit d'Hyver, appearing in January 1678 Extraordinaire of the Mercure Galant; French.

Materials

Paper; Printing ink

Techniques

Etching; Engraving

Subjects depicted

Man; Cape; Pattern; Hat; Ribbons; Shoes; Embroidery; Purse; Cravat; Costume; Doublet

Categories

Fashion plates; Prints

Production Type

Limited edition

Collection

Prints, Drawings & Paintings Collection

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