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Habit d'Hyver

  • Object:

    Print

  • Place of origin:

    Paris (made)

  • Date:

    1678 (published)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Le Pautre, Jean, born 1618 - died 1682 (printmaker)
    Jean Berain the elder, born 1638 - died 1711 (designer)
    Mercure Galant (publisher)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Etching and engraving

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Antony Griffiths and Judy Rudoe

  • Museum number:

    E.266-2014

  • Gallery location:

    Europe 1600-1815, Room 5, The Friends of the V&A Gallery, case CA2

This is one of four costume plates (two male and two female) that appeared in the January 1678 Extraordinaire of the French monthly journal Mercure Galant. They were accompanied by descriptive text. The plates, as the descriptive text suggested, informed tailors and merchants as well as readers in up-to-date fashions of the court. The prints were made by printmaker Jean Le Pautre (1618-1682), based on designs by Jean Bérain (1637-1711). Bérain was pre-eminent designer draughtsmen of the seventeenth century who was designer to Louis XIV from 1674 and whose work defined the Louis XIV style.

Mercure Galant was a periodical founded by Jean Donneau de Visé (1638-1710) and appeared monthly from 1677. It was accompanied three times a year between 1678 and 1692 by a supplement entitled Exttraordinaire, which described events and new fashions. Part of the success of the journal lay in its method of presentation, which was in the form od a letter addresses to a fictional correspondent who represented the largely femaile reading public. This provided an intimate forum in which new fashions could be discussed. The Mercure Galant was the first periodical to treat fashion as a subject worthy of discussion.

Physical description

Costume plate of man with long hair wearing hat decorated with a ribbon, doublet with fringed cuffs, pantaloons, shoes, patterned cravat and sash, and sword, and is holding a cane.

Place of Origin

Paris (made)

Date

1678 (published)

Artist/maker

Le Pautre, Jean, born 1618 - died 1682 (printmaker)
Jean Berain the elder, born 1638 - died 1711 (designer)
Mercure Galant (publisher)

Materials and Techniques

Etching and engraving

Marks and inscriptions

Habit d'Hyver
Top left corner

Ruban large brodé / de Soye / Castor ras noir / Iuste-au-corps de drap / de Holande couleur / de noisette. / Baudrier brodé / couleur de la pluche / double reneurs- / de manches sans- / veste / frange forte couleur / de Prince / pluche de couleur / Bas rouléz cou- / leur de l'habit / l'Ecgarpe de point / d'espagne ou de rai- / seau Or et Argent
right side

Dimensions

Height: 13 cm, Width: 10.1 cm

Object history note

Gift of Antony Griffiths and Judy Rudoe

Descriptive line

Etching and engraving. Costume plate by Jean Lepautre after Jean Bérain. Habit d'Hyver, appearing in January 1678 Extraordinaire of the Mercure Galant; French.

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Thépaut-Cabasset, Corinne. L'Esprit de modes au Grand Siècle. Paris: CTHS, 2010.

Materials

Paper; Printing ink

Techniques

Etching; Engraving

Subjects depicted

Man; Embroidery; Cravat; Sword; Hat; Doublet; Cane; Pattern; Sash; Ribbons; Shoes; Costume

Categories

Fashion plates; Prints

Production Type

Limited edition

Collection

Prints, Drawings & Paintings Collection

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