Gloria Guinness (1912-80) was a wealthy, elegant socialite and writer. She was voted 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962, second only to Jacqueline Kennedy.
Gloria Guinness kept a full wardrobe in each of her seven homes, so that she would never have to pack. She saw haute couture as an art form and patronised many couture houses.
This embroidered evening dress by Christian Dior (1905-57) was a special commission. It is a variation of a dress featured in Dior's spring/summer collection of 1954, called Belle de Nuit but Mrs. Guinness had the skirt lengthened and the bolero added. This would have greatly increased the cost, as embroidery was an expensive and time consuming addition. She may have been so taken with it because it was in yellow - a colour she favoured as it suited her dark hair.
Physical description
Evening ensemble comprising a full-length evening dress, bolero, and cummerbund belt. The dress and bolero are decorated with alternating horizontal bands of beading and ribbon-work embroidery with beads and sequins, and interspersed with flowers worked in metal thread. The dress is strapless with a straight skirt.
[Cummerbund] Cummerbund in a paler yellow silk organza, boned and with hook fastening.
[Bolero] Small bolero of yellow silk organza with matching embroidery and with cap sleeves.
[Evening dress] Dress in yellow silk organza with horizontal bands of white beads, metallic sequins, lace, ribbon and embroidery. Bodice lining of cotton net, boned and with a back fastening of hooks.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1954 (made)
Artist/maker
Dior, born 1905 - died 1957 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Embroidered silk organza with metal threads, beads, sequins and ribbon, lined with cotton net and boned
Marks and inscriptions
'Christian Dior Paris Spring/Summer 1954'
Dimensions
Diameter: 60 cm footprint, Circumference: 60 cm waist, Circumference: 77 cm chest
Object history note
This dress was a special commission by Christian Dior for Gloria Guinness, and was given to the Museum as part of the Beaton gift in 1971. It is a variation ofBelle de Nuit, of Dior's 1954 s/s collection listed in the Dior Archive, Paris. However, the original design features straps, a fuller skirt and a plain silk stole rather than a bolero. Embroidered dresses were a theme of Dior's 1954 s/s collection.
Gloria Rubio y Alatorre, better known as Gloria Guinness (1912-1980) was an elegant socialite and writer of the mid 20th century. Her third husband, whom she married in 1951, was Group Capt. Thomas Loel Guinness, a Member of Parliament (died 1989) and an heir to the Guinness beer fortune. She was voted second 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962. Jackie Kennedy was in first place. (See Time magazine Jan 26 1962)
Descriptive line
Full-length evening dress, bolero, and cummerbund belt 'La Ligne Muguet' in embroidered silk organza, designed by Christian Dior, Paris, 1954
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Beaton, C., Fashion: An Anthology (London: The Victoria and Albert Museum, 1971), p.26
Yellow embroidered evening outfit. French. Christian Dior, Spring/Summer 1964. Made from silk organza with horizontal bands of alternating bead and ribbon embroidery. The dress is strapless with a straight skirt. It is worn with a small matching bolero jacket. A special design for Mrs Loel Guinness, by whom it was given.
Vickers, H., 'Cecil Beaton' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, 2007), p.169 and pl.7.12 & 7.13
Mrs Loel Guinness (1913-80) had an extraordinary life. Born in Mexico as Gloria Rubio, her first husband was a Count Furstenberg, to whom she was married at the behest of the German art collector, Freddy Horstmann. Her second husband was an Egyptian by the name of Fakhry, and her third husband, the banker Loel Guinness. In many ways she was unhappy as his wife, as she loved to party and he did not. She gave an enormous number of items from Balenciaga, Dior, Courreges, Lanvin Castillo, Givenchy, Hellstern and Jeanne Lafaurie, proving that she spread her commissions amongst many different couturiers. Among the 17 outfits, 12 hats and pairs of shoes that she donated were a 1948 Balenciaga evening gown (T.16-1974) of organdie with flack flowers, a 1949 hand-painted evening gown by Marcelle Chaumont (T.92-1974), and a 1950s evening gown by Jeanne Lafaurie (T.281-1974), the only dress by that designer in the V&A's collection.
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/10/1971-31/01/1972)
Labels and date
Evening dress with bolero jacket (robe du soir)
Christian Dior (1905-57)
Paris
1954 spring/summer, Ligne Muguet
The expensively embroidered ensemble may have been made specially for Mrs Gloria Guinness, as it does not appear in the list of designs for that season. She was one of the few couture clients able to afford special orders.
Silk organza with bands of bead and ribbon embroidery
Worn and given by Mrs Gloria Guinness
V&A: T.133&A, B-1974 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Production Note
Spring/summer 1954. A variation of the Belle de Nuit design
Attribution note: A special commission for the client
Reason For Production: Commission
Materials
Metal thread; Beads; Sequins; Organza
Techniques
Embroidering
Subjects depicted
Flowers
Categories
Embroidery; Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
