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La Ligne Muguet

Evening Dress
1954 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Gloria Guinness (1912-80) was a wealthy, elegant socialite and writer. She was voted 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962, second only to Jacqueline Kennedy.

Gloria Guinness kept a full wardrobe in each of her seven homes, so that she would never have to pack. She saw haute couture as an art form and patronised many couture houses.

This embroidered evening dress by Christian Dior (1905-57) was a special commission. It is a variation of a dress featured in Dior's spring/summer collection of 1954, called Belle de Nuit but Mrs. Guinness had the skirt lengthened and the bolero added. This would have greatly increased the cost, as embroidery was an expensive and time consuming addition. She may have been so taken with it because it was in yellow - a colour she favoured as it suited her dark hair.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 4 parts.

  • Cummerbund
  • Bolero
  • Evening Dress
  • Fabric
TitleLa Ligne Muguet (named collection)
Materials and techniques
Embroidered silk organza with metal threads, beads, sequins and ribbon, lined with cotton net and boned
Brief description
Full-length evening dress, bolero, and cummerbund belt 'La Ligne Muguet' in embroidered silk organza, designed by Christian Dior, Paris, 1954
Physical description
Evening ensemble comprising a full-length evening dress, bolero, and cummerbund belt. The dress and bolero are decorated with alternating horizontal bands of beading and ribbon-work embroidery with beads and sequins, and interspersed with flowers worked in metal thread. The dress is strapless with a straight skirt.
Dimensions
  • Footprint diameter: 60cm
  • Waist circumference: 60cm
  • Chest circumference: 77cm
Style
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and inscriptions
'Christian Dior Paris Spring/Summer 1954' (Label inside bodice, black on white)
Gallery label
Evening dress with bolero jacket (robe du soir) Christian Dior (1905-57) Paris 1954 spring/summer, Ligne Muguet The expensively embroidered ensemble may have been made specially for Mrs Gloria Guinness, as it does not appear in the list of designs for that season. She was one of the few couture clients able to afford special orders. Silk organza with bands of bead and ribbon embroidery Worn and given by Mrs Gloria Guinness V&A: T.133&A, B-1974(22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Credit line
Given by Mrs Loel Guinness
Object history
This dress was a special commission by Christian Dior for Gloria Guinness, and was given to the Museum as part of the Beaton gift in 1971. It is a variation ofBelle de Nuit, of Dior's 1954 s/s collection listed in the Dior Archive, Paris. However, the original design features straps, a fuller skirt and a plain silk stole rather than a bolero. Embroidered dresses were a theme of Dior's 1954 s/s collection.

Gloria Rubio y Alatorre, better known as Gloria Guinness (1912-1980) was an elegant socialite and writer of the mid 20th century. Her third husband, whom she married in 1951, was Group Capt. Thomas Loel Guinness, a Member of Parliament (died 1989) and an heir to the Guinness beer fortune. She was voted second 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962. Jackie Kennedy was in first place. (See Time magazine Jan 26 1962)
Production
Spring/summer 1954. A variation of the Belle de Nuit design

Attribution note: A special commission for the client
Reason For Production: Commission
Subject depicted
Association
Summary
Gloria Guinness (1912-80) was a wealthy, elegant socialite and writer. She was voted 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962, second only to Jacqueline Kennedy.

Gloria Guinness kept a full wardrobe in each of her seven homes, so that she would never have to pack. She saw haute couture as an art form and patronised many couture houses.

This embroidered evening dress by Christian Dior (1905-57) was a special commission. It is a variation of a dress featured in Dior's spring/summer collection of 1954, called Belle de Nuit but Mrs. Guinness had the skirt lengthened and the bolero added. This would have greatly increased the cost, as embroidery was an expensive and time consuming addition. She may have been so taken with it because it was in yellow - a colour she favoured as it suited her dark hair.
Bibliographic references
  • Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton. London : H.M.S.O., 1971 p.26
  • Vickers, H., 'Cecil Beaton' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, 2007), p.169 and pl.7.12 & 7.13
Other numbers
  • 44153 - Dior Label number
  • 66815 - Number on label
Collection
Accession number
T.133 to B-1974

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Record createdOctober 5, 2006
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