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Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Fashion, Room 40

Dress

1890-1895 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This 1890s dinner dress with its distinctive design of clusters of oranges on a black ground would have made a dramatic effect when worn. The realistic design was created using sensitive colour combinations and a highly sophisticated jacquard-weaving technique, and was probably executed by silk manufacturers in the Spitalfields area of London.

The fabric shows the influence of Japanese styles. A taste for Japanese art and design was stimulated by the International Exhibition held in London in 1862, during which many people saw the country's wares for the first time. The contrasting colours and clearly defined motifs in the fabric design are suggestive of a Japanese influence, while the dress construction conforms to the fashionable Western silhouette of the late nineteenth century.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Jaquard-woven silk, with machine lace, silk ribbon, whalebone support
Brief description
Jacquard-woven silk dress with black ground and pattern of oranges, and black machine-made lace and silk ribbon panels in front
Physical description
Dinner dress made of jacquard-woven silk with a realistic design of clusters of oranges on a black ground, trimmed in front with silk ribbon and black machine lace. The bodice is supported with whalebone strips.
Dimensions
  • Length: 43.5cm (pattern repeat)
Credit line
Given by Sir Herbert Ingram, Bt, Captain B. S. Ingram MC, and Captain Collingwood Ingram
Object history
Gift of the Ingram family
Subject depicted
Summary
This 1890s dinner dress with its distinctive design of clusters of oranges on a black ground would have made a dramatic effect when worn. The realistic design was created using sensitive colour combinations and a highly sophisticated jacquard-weaving technique, and was probably executed by silk manufacturers in the Spitalfields area of London.

The fabric shows the influence of Japanese styles. A taste for Japanese art and design was stimulated by the International Exhibition held in London in 1862, during which many people saw the country's wares for the first time. The contrasting colours and clearly defined motifs in the fabric design are suggestive of a Japanese influence, while the dress construction conforms to the fashionable Western silhouette of the late nineteenth century.
Bibliographic reference
Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6. This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)
Collection
Accession number
T.201-1927

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Record createdSeptember 27, 2006
Record URL
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