This jacket would have been worn by a fireman. It is made from several layers of thick cotton quilted together using a technqiue known as ‘sashiko’. Before tackling a blaze a fireman would be drenched in water to protect him from the flames, the quilting of the jacket allowing for maximum absorption. Wearing this heavy garment the fireman would attack the blaze, using a long pole to pull down buildings to prevent the fire from spreading. The design of the jacket provided more than just physical protection. The motif of a dragon, a magical beast who brought storms when it descended from the heavens, served to wrap the fireman in divine protection. The jacket is reversible, and during a fire the plain side would be revealed. When the fire had been defeated - and on festival days - the dynamic image would be revealed.
Physical description
This fireman's coat is of several layers of indigo blue cotton quilted together with vertical stitching in double blue cotton thread. The parallel lines of stitches are approximately half a centimetre apart.
The top part of the coat, back and front, bears a painted resist-dyed design of a dragon with a pearl among cloud swirls. The lower half of the coat has a large geometric design of vertical and horizontal bands of grey resisted against the blue background.
The coat is simply cut in the usual Japanese style with a centre back seam and no shoulder seams. There are no inserts at the front but a long collar band extends to the hemline. The cuffs and hem are bound with blue cotton.
Place of Origin
Japan (made)
Date
late 19th century - early 20th century (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Cotton, with freehand paste-resist decoration (tsutsugaki), and quilted in cotton stitches (sashiko)
Dimensions
Length: 95 cm, Width: 122 cm across sleeves
Object history note
Purchased with FE.107A-1982. Registered File number 1982/1839.
Historical context note
In the course of fighting a fire, the fireman would have belted the coat and closed his hood flaps (see FE.107A-1982). He would then have been hosed down with water to protect him from the flames.
For a similar coat plus breeches and gloves see Hauge, Takako & Hauge, Victor, Folk Traditions in Japanese Art, Tokyo/New York: Kodansha, 1978 pages 162 and 163.
Descriptive line
Fireman's jacket, quilted cotton with resist-dyed decoration, Japan, late 19th century - early 20th century.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Bicknell, Julian, Hiroshige in Tokyo: The Floating World of Edo, San Francisco: Pomegranate Artbooks, 1994, page 45
Earle, J. (editor), Japanese Art and Design: The Toshiba Gallery Guide, London: V&A Publications, 1986, page 175
Jackson, Anna, Japanese Country Textiles, London: V&A Publications, 1997, page 62, fig. 38
Verity Wilson, 'Country textiles from Japan and the Ryukyu Islands in the Victoria and Albert Museum', Orientations, July 1983, page 28, figs 1 & 2
Materials
Cotton; Cotton thread; Indigo
Techniques
Resist-dyeing; Quilting
Subjects depicted
Dragons; Cloud
Categories
Textiles; Men's clothes
Collection code
EAS
