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Coat and Breeches

1770-1779 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

A man’s coat and breeches of lilac woollen broadcloth. The coat has a ⅞-inch (1.8 cm) standing collar, and curving two-piece sleeves ending in a 3¾-inch (8.5 cm) cuff. The fronts curve from neck to hem with pleats 5¼-inch (8.3 cm) deep, below the hip set at the side back. Each front has a pocket with scalloped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The coat is lined with dark green silk satin, the sleeves and pockets with bleached linen. There are 8 mother-of-pearl buttons, set with silver-gilt and green glass paste, arranged in pairs along the right front. Beside each is an applied decoration – a narrow strip of leather embroidered with green and red foil spangles and silver purl. At the end of each is a tassel of silver frisé, thread and spangles. The same decoration is arranged in pairs along the left front. The top 4 buttonholes have been cut but not worked. There are 3 buttons below each pocket with corresponding decoration on the pocket flaps, and 3 on each cuff. Three buttons adorn the pleats, 1 at the hem, 1 half-way up; the 1 at the top has a tassel on each side.

The breeches comprise 2 fronts, two backs and 2 waistbands, made of lilac woollen broadcloth. The back legs are cut higher than the fronts and gathered into the back of the waistbands. There is a pocket on each front and a watch pocket in the lining of the right front waistbands. The fronts close with buttoned waistbands and a fall front; the back waistbands with eyelets as well as a buckle and strap. The breeches are unlined; the centre back, centre front seams covered with lilac silk tape. The fall front is lined with dark green silk satin, the waistband and pockets with fustian. There are 3 metal and ivory buttons on the front waistband, 1 to fasten each corner of the pocket and 2 for the fall front. On each leg, 2 of the original mother-of-pearl, silver-gilt and glass paste buttons remain; 2 other metal filigree buttons are later replacements. There is a knee-band below of knitted beige silk.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Coat
  • Breeches
Materials and Techniques
Wool, silk, linen, mother-of-pearl, silver, glass paste, foil; hand woven, hand sewn
Brief Description
Man's coat and breeches, Great Britain, 1770-1779; lilac broadcloth, spangles, tassels, mother-of-pearl buttons
Physical Description
A man’s coat and breeches of lilac woollen broadcloth. The coat has a ⅞-inch (1.8 cm) standing collar, and curving two-piece sleeves ending in a 3¾-inch (8.5 cm) cuff. The fronts curve from neck to hem with pleats 5¼-inch (8.3 cm) deep, below the hip set at the side back. Each front has a pocket with scalloped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The coat is lined with dark green silk satin, the sleeves and pockets with bleached linen. There are 8 mother-of-pearl buttons, set with silver-gilt and green glass paste, arranged in pairs along the right front. Beside each is an applied decoration – a narrow strip of leather embroidered with green and red foil spangles and silver purl. At the end of each is a tassel of silver frisé, thread and spangles. The same decoration is arranged in pairs along the left front. The top 4 buttonholes have been cut but not worked. There are 3 buttons below each pocket with corresponding decoration on the pocket flaps, and 3 on each cuff. Three buttons adorn the pleats, 1 at the hem, 1 half-way up; the 1 at the top has a tassel on each side.



The breeches comprise 2 fronts, two backs and 2 waistbands, made of lilac woollen broadcloth. The back legs are cut higher than the fronts and gathered into the back of the waistbands. There is a pocket on each front and a watch pocket in the lining of the right front waistbands. The fronts close with buttoned waistbands and a fall front; the back waistbands with eyelets as well as a buckle and strap. The breeches are unlined; the centre back, centre front seams covered with lilac silk tape. The fall front is lined with dark green silk satin, the waistband and pockets with fustian. There are 3 metal and ivory buttons on the front waistband, 1 to fasten each corner of the pocket and 2 for the fall front. On each leg, 2 of the original mother-of-pearl, silver-gilt and glass paste buttons remain; 2 other metal filigree buttons are later replacements. There is a knee-band below of knitted beige silk.
Production typeUnique
Credit line
Given by Mrs Phoebe Timpson
Object history
Registered File number 1994/409.
Bibliographic Reference
Hart, Avril and Susan North, Historical Fashion in Detail: The 17th and 18th Centuries, London: V&A Publications, 1998, p. 126
Collection
Accession Number
T.365:1, 2-1995

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record createdAugust 16, 2006
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