Man's doublet, 1625-30, English, green and cream figured silk, probably Italian, paning

Man’s doublet of figured silk with a cream ground and green floral sprigs, interlined with linen, and lined with beige silk satin. It has a 2⅜-inch (6 cm) standing collar, 2½-inch (6.3 cm) deep shoulder wings and curving 2-piece sleeves, with a high, pointed waist. The sleeves, fronts and backs are paned. There were probably 8 laps; two are missed and two have been moved. A woven lace, 3/16-inch (4 mm) wide, of green and cream silk, applied in parallel rows, covers the seams and decorates the shoulder wings and laps. Single lengths of the lace edge the panes. On each sleeve, below the paning, the woven lace has been couched to 5/16-inch (6 cm) strips of cream silk satin and applied in 10 horizontal rows. These are further embellished with decorative knots, purl and 10 buttons of cream and green silk. There are 6 rows of this decoration at the centre back below the paning. The belly piece appears to be made of bents and layers of linen stitched together and covered with the beige satin lining. There are 8 worked buttonholes on each sleeve, 30 down the left front, and the remains of 5 button loops of braided cream and green silk on the collar. The buttons have a wooden core covered with cream and green silk thread; 12 remain. The laps have 8 lacing holes, except for the 2 laps at centre front which each have 5. A single metal eye is sewn inside at the centre back waist. There is a lacing loop of beige satin inside each front above the waist. There are 2 belt loops of braided green and cream silk at the front waist and 2 at the back.

This silk doublet demonstrates the ornamental use of buttons and braided silk in the early 17th century. The sleeves fit tightly from elbow to wrist and fasten with buttons on the seam at the back. Covering each forearm are ten strips of cream silk satin overlaid with narrow green and cream woven lace (braid). A button worked in green and cream silk sits in the centre of each strip, the ends of which are finished with decorative knots and purle. At the centre back of the doublet, the same decoration is repeated. The techniques by which the woven lace, purl and buttons are all worked are known as passementerie.

170-1869