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Mantua
Unknown - Enlarge image
Mantua
- Place of origin:
Great Britain, UK (made)
France (woven) - Date:
1775-1785 (made)
- Artist/Maker:
Unknown (production)
- Materials and Techniques:
Silk satin embroidered with silk and chenille thread, and linen, hand woven and hand sewn
- Credit Line:
Given by Major W. S. Gosling
- Museum number:
T.13-1952
- Gallery location:
In Storage
The tangled garden of chenille decoration on this court mantua enhances the white silk satin fabric. It is tamboured (chain stitched with a hook instead of a needle) with coloured silk and chenille threads, in a meandering pattern of flowers and leaves. A fly fringe (braid) of chenille threads, wound into the shapes of more flowers and leaves, trims the mantua. Bobbin lace of blonde (silk) and chenille edges the fringe and neckline.
The quality of the needlework suggests French production. In style, the design reflects the woven silk patterns of the 1750s, designs that remained fashionable in embroidery until the 1790s. The mantua was probably made in the late 1770s and the bodice modified slightly in the 1780s. Its petticoat of matching fabric suffered extensive alterations for fancy dress in the late 19th century.
