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Coat

  • Place of origin:

    Great Britain (made)

  • Date:

    1785-1790 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silk, linen, wood; hand-woven, hand-sewn

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Mrs N. J. Batten

  • Museum number:

    T.92-1962

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

A striking combination of green and blue enlivens this plain frock coat of the late 1780s. The most fashionable coat styles for men featured fronts curving sharply back, a high turned-down collar and long tight sleeves. By the 1780s the side pleats had moved towards the centre back seam, and were much less voluminous than in previous decades.

The buttons were worked in embroidery silks matching the colours of the coat, probably over a wooden base. The design is quartered; each quartering is created by a type of needle-weaving where the silk threads are laid side-by-side, then passed over and under each other.

Physical description

A man’s coat of blue taffeta with narrow stripes of leaf-green satin, imitating a ribbon with picot edges. It has a 3-inch (7.7 cm) turn-down collar and curving 2-piece sleeves ending in mariner’s cuffs, 3¼ inches (8.3 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem with pleats 3 inches (7.7 cm) deep, below the hip set beside the centre back. Each front has a pocket with rectangular pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The back, fronts, sleeves and pockets are lined with linen, the skirts and pocket flaps with the same fabric as the coat. There are 9 buttons of blue and green silk thread in a death’s head pattern along the right front2 on each cuff and 1 at the top and hem of the pleats. There are 3 worked buttonholes on the left front, corresponding with the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th buttons, and 2 on each cuff.

Place of Origin

Great Britain (made)

Date

1785-1790 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Silk, linen, wood; hand-woven, hand-sewn

Dimensions

Length: 105.0 cm top of right collar to hem approx, Circumference: 101.8 cm chest under armholes approx

Descriptive line

Man's coat of striped blue silk and green silk satin, Great Britain, 1785-1790, matching buttons

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Hart, Avril and Susan North, Historical Fashion in Detail: The 17th and 18th Centuries, London: V&A Publications, 1998, p. 84

Materials

Silk (textile); Linen (material)

Techniques

Hand weaving; Hand sewing

Subjects depicted

Stripes

Categories

Fashion; Men's clothes; Textiles; Europeana Fashion Project

Production Type

Unique

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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