White cotton embroidery on white cotton fabric, known as 'chikan' embroidery, is particularly associated with Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh, India. although it probably originated in Calcutta and Dhaka. Instead of coloured yarns, it uses a variety of textured stitches to provide interest, often combined with pulled-thread or 'jali' work to make open-work patterns. Lucknow chikan work also sometimes adds muga silk, in its natural pale brown colour, to add variety to the design, as in this example.
This sample of embroidery is in the form of two exquisitiely worked borders or cuffs, which would be cut and stitched on to a garment. Chikan work is still very popular for lightweight shirts (kurtas) and was also widely used in the 19th century as western dress material.