Kimono, monochrome figures silk, with resist-dyed and embroidered decoration, Japan, Edo period, 1780-1820

Kosode (kimono with small sleeve openings) of white silk self-patterned with a small all-over key fret, orchids and plum blossoms. On this white ground is a larger design of linked blue hexagons, chrysanthemums and plum blossoms in faded red, blue and yellow pigments and dyes, and grey-mauve and gold embroidery.
The ground weave is a damask of the type known as rinzu. It is a 5-end warp faced satin weave figured with a 5-end weft-faced satin weave. The hexagons and chrysanthemums are resist-dyed with clusters of spots known as kanoko shibori. At least some of these effects may have been produced by the use of stencils. Additional colour has been brushed over some of the chrysanthemums.
The centres of the hexagons and chrysanthemums are embroidered with gold couched thread and some of the plum flowers are entirely worked in this method. The other plum flowers are worked in satin stitch embroidery in grey-mauve floss silk, and green floss silk is used for rudimentary branches.
The garment is lined throughout with thin red plain weave silk and the cuffs are lined with white damask self-patterned with bird roundels against a diaper of crossing wavy lines. There is a small red silk wadded hem.

Purchased. Registered File number 1983/587.

The fabric used to make this kimono is of a kind known as rinzu, a monochrome patterned silk the weaving technique for which was introduced to Japan from China in the16th century. Like most rinzu it is woven with a small key-fret and flower pattern known as sayagata. The flower and hexagon pattern was created using stencils and embroidery.

FE.13-1983