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Kimono

Kimono

  • Place of origin:

    Japan (made)

  • Date:

    1910-1930 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown (production)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silk crêpe (<i>chirimen</i>) with resist dyeing (<i>shibori</i>) and embroidery

  • Museum number:

    FE.17-1994

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

  • Image in copyright

The striking pattern of this kimono reveals the dynamism of Japanese textile design in the early 20th century. A traditional motif of pine trees, plum blossoms and clouds has been dramatically enlarged, the bold design reflecting the confident spirit of the period. The pine trees have been executed in a method of tie-dyeing called shibori, while the plum blossoms are lavishly embroidered in orange, yellow and gold. These auspicious motifs and expensive techniques suggest this may have been a garment for a very special occasion, or perhaps that the young woman who wore it was a geisha.

Physical description

Furisode (swinging sleeve) kimono of heavy black silk crêpe (chirimen) with an overall design of bamboo and flowering plums. Lined with red plain-weave silk.
Large areas of beige, representing clouds, have been reserved by means of stitch-resist shibori. Surface gold has then been painted on and randomly scored. In these areas the fabric is quite stiff. The bamboo trunks and leaves have also been resist dyed, although it is unclear whether the technique used is kanoko shibori or is created using stencils. The lack of regularity and the slight surface texture suggest kanoko shibori, although the latter may have been approximated by using a blunt tool to press the central dot from behind.The cloud and bamboo design continues on the reverse of the skirt. Flowering plums are embroidered over the clouds and bamboo in various shades of orange, yellow, red, cream and green untwisted silk which is couched down diagonally with fine thread of the same colour. The branches and edges of the flowers are in gold and silver thread which is couched down with yellow and white thread respectively. Gold and silver thread is also used for some of the flowers and appears to have been passed through the fabric itself. There are five diamond shaped mon of hanging wisteria. These have been resisted out and the black lines of the design have been printed or stencilled on. The five mon, long sleeves, black ground, and rich design indicate that this kimono would have been worn at a very formal occasion.

Place of Origin

Japan (made)

Date

1910-1930 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown (production)

Materials and Techniques

Silk crêpe (chirimen) with resist dyeing (shibori) and embroidery

Dimensions

Length: 158 cm, Width: 129 cm

Descriptive line

Kimono, black silk crêpe with resist dyed and embroidered decoration of bamboo and plums, Japan, 1910-1930

Materials

Silk crepe

Techniques

Embroidery; Resist dyed

Subjects depicted

Bamboo; Plum blossom

Categories

Textiles; Embroidery; Formal wear; Women's clothes

Collection code

EAS

Qr_O126743
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