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Not currently on display at the V&A

Girdle

1650-1750 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This belt is a marriage belt from South Germany, made as part of the traditional dress from that area. It was described as early 17th century when it was acquired, but pieces like this are very difficult to date precisely as they continued in use, with little change, up to the 19th century. This one probably dates from the late 17th or early 18th century. It was certainly made before 1810, as it carries a mark which was applied to existing pieces at that time.

The sunflowers in the design confirm its use as a traditional marriage belt. They were a symbol of St. Michael, and were believed to protect against infertility and help with problems of pregnancy and childbirth. They were often used on betrothal or marriage rings in the region.

European traditional jewellery of all kinds was very popular in Britain in the 19th century. In 1872, Henry Cole, the director of the South Kensington Museum, as the V&A was then called, amassed a large number of examples which were first displayed at the International Exhibition in London, and then transferred to the Museum. This belt is one of those pieces. It was bought in Bavaria for £9 5s. 10d. in 1872.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Cast and pierced silver, partly gilt
Brief description
Girdle of silver, partly gilded, decorated with sunflowers, Bavaria (Germany), 1650-1750.
Physical description
Silver belt, partly gilded. The belt consists of 29 cast plaques, roughly rectangular in shape with a small loop at each side, pierced in a design of sunflowers. They are linked to each other by 28 similar smaller gilded vertical plaques, each with a ring in the centre of its back which is threaded through the loops on the two adjacent plaques. The silver plaque at each end has a larger loop soldered onto its outside edge. A larger circular plaque, with a hook on its back, is attached to one of these to form the clasp. This clasp is a flat disc of sheet silver, gilded on the front, with the edge notched to resemble petals. It is covered with a domed pierced silver plaque of flowers, matching the plaques of the belt, which is nailed to the back plate. At around one-third of the length of the belt there is another circular plaque, similar to the clasp, which replaces one of the gilded vertical plaques. This plaque has three loops on the back: two attaching it to the belt on either side, and one holding a loose ring of silver wire. The pierced plaque on its front is hooked on to the gilded back plate.
Dimensions
  • Height: 4.3cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'AK' in oval frame. (Marked twice on back of clasp, and twice on back of central circular plaque.)
    Translation
    Mark of unidentifed maker.
  • 'c' in slanted square frame with double border. (Marked twice on loop at end of belt, and twice on front rim of central circular plaque.)
    Transliteration
    Duty mark applied in 1806-7 to existing objects. 'c' indicates Salzburg.
Summary
This belt is a marriage belt from South Germany, made as part of the traditional dress from that area. It was described as early 17th century when it was acquired, but pieces like this are very difficult to date precisely as they continued in use, with little change, up to the 19th century. This one probably dates from the late 17th or early 18th century. It was certainly made before 1810, as it carries a mark which was applied to existing pieces at that time.

The sunflowers in the design confirm its use as a traditional marriage belt. They were a symbol of St. Michael, and were believed to protect against infertility and help with problems of pregnancy and childbirth. They were often used on betrothal or marriage rings in the region.

European traditional jewellery of all kinds was very popular in Britain in the 19th century. In 1872, Henry Cole, the director of the South Kensington Museum, as the V&A was then called, amassed a large number of examples which were first displayed at the International Exhibition in London, and then transferred to the Museum. This belt is one of those pieces. It was bought in Bavaria for £9 5s. 10d. in 1872.
Bibliographic reference
Collection
Accession number
934-1872

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Record createdAugust 1, 2006
Record URL
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