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Girdle thumbnail 2
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Girdle

1500-1550 (made), 1750-1850 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This belt is Nordic in design, but appears to have been put together from a number of parts dating from different periods. The main part, consisting of alternating S-shaped scrolls and openwork wire rectangles, may date from the 16th century, although the parts are not in their original order, judging by the inscription on the scrolls, which forms part of the angelic salutation to the Virgin Mary. The ends each consist of three separate parts: two cast openwork rectangles with renaissance-style mermen, two circular segments, and a clasp made from two lozenge-shaped leaves.

The circular segments are probably part of a set of bodice fasteners, which would have been sewn along the front opening of a bodice, or on the decorative collar worn by Sami women in Lapland. They would originally have had a dome in the centre of the front, which has now been cut off to leave a hole; the flaps of silver at the back, which held the missing dome in place, suggest that it also probably once had a loop at the top with a pendant hanging from it. The lozenge-shaped clasp was also originally an appliqué which was sewn to a Nordic bodice or more probably a Lapp collar. A loop has been soldered to each end, at the back, to attach it to the belt, and the loop in the centre of the central dome, which would have held a pendant, has been sawn off.

The end parts probably date from the late 18th or 19th century, and come from Lapland. They would have been added to the other parts in the late 19th century, when Nordic traditional jewellery of all kinds was very popular in Britain, and there was little published information to help people identify objects.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Engraved, cast and repousse silver, gilded on the front
Brief description
Silver belt, gilded on the front, inscribed with portions of the Angelic Salutation to the Virgin, Scandinavia, 1500-1550, 1750-1850.
Physical description
Silver belt, gilded on the front. The main part of the belt consists of 12 rectangular elements alternating with 12 S-shaped scrolls. Each rectangular element is a plain frame, overlaid with two intertwined clipped scrolls, with a loop at each end. The S-shaped scrolls are each engraved on the front, some with portions of the Ave Maria prayer in Latin, but they are not in order, or complete. One is damaged, and one is missing. There is a ring on the back of each scroll, which is threaded through the loops on the two adjacent elements. At each end there is an openwork segment, cast in the shape of a merman, and a circular segment with a floral motif with a hole in the centre resting on a ring of twisted wire. The clasp consists of two horizontal lozenges, with domed and engraved decoration, with a hook at the end of one, and a corresponding hole at the end of the other. There is a central openwork dome over the hook.
Dimensions
  • Height: 2.4cm
  • Width: 65.2cm
  • Depth: 0.8cm
Marks and inscriptions
*AVE*/ANNA/ANN/TECU/FRUCTU/scroll/ANN../*GRAC/scroll/MARIA (inscribed with portions of the Angelic Salutation to the Virgin on the S-shaped scrolls)
Credit line
Given by Walter Child
Subjects depicted
Summary
This belt is Nordic in design, but appears to have been put together from a number of parts dating from different periods. The main part, consisting of alternating S-shaped scrolls and openwork wire rectangles, may date from the 16th century, although the parts are not in their original order, judging by the inscription on the scrolls, which forms part of the angelic salutation to the Virgin Mary. The ends each consist of three separate parts: two cast openwork rectangles with renaissance-style mermen, two circular segments, and a clasp made from two lozenge-shaped leaves.

The circular segments are probably part of a set of bodice fasteners, which would have been sewn along the front opening of a bodice, or on the decorative collar worn by Sami women in Lapland. They would originally have had a dome in the centre of the front, which has now been cut off to leave a hole; the flaps of silver at the back, which held the missing dome in place, suggest that it also probably once had a loop at the top with a pendant hanging from it. The lozenge-shaped clasp was also originally an appliqué which was sewn to a Nordic bodice or more probably a Lapp collar. A loop has been soldered to each end, at the back, to attach it to the belt, and the loop in the centre of the central dome, which would have held a pendant, has been sawn off.

The end parts probably date from the late 18th or 19th century, and come from Lapland. They would have been added to the other parts in the late 19th century, when Nordic traditional jewellery of all kinds was very popular in Britain, and there was little published information to help people identify objects.
Bibliographic reference
Collection
Accession number
M.75-1910

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Record createdAugust 1, 2006
Record URL
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