Earring thumbnail 1
Earring thumbnail 2
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91 to 93 mezzanine, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Earring

1860-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Traditional jewellery often followed out-dated aristocratic examples. Many Portuguese and Spanish traditional earrings were based on 17th and 18th-century patterns, but over time local differences became fixed, and patterns became characteristic of a particular place.

This earring, called ‘a rainha’, comes from the north of Portugal. Its shape, of a pendant hanging from a stylised bow, derives from a late 17th-century design common throughout Europe. But a 17th-century earring would have had a pear-shaped drop. In Portugal the goldsmiths replaced it with a round crescent. This shape, which is used for traditional earrings throughout inland Spain and the north of Portugal, is very old, and may date back to the time of the Moorish occupation. This earring was bought for £1 10s (the pair) at the International Exhibition, London, 1872.

The name ‘a rainha’ means ‘of the queen’. Earrings of this design are still made today in the north of Portugal.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Gold with filigree
Brief description
Gold earring (a rainha) with filigree decoration, Oporto (Portugal), 1860-1870.
Physical description
Gold filigree pendant earring. Oval disc attached to the wire, from which hangs a stylised bow supporting a circular disc with an eccentric space in the centre, so that it looks like a crescent moon. There is a small filigree triangle on the lower edge of the crescent, and a small rosette hangs in the central space.
Dimensions
  • Height: 6.8cm
  • Width: 3.5cm
  • Depth: 1.1cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • Shield mark. (On front edge of pendant.)
    Translation
    Town mark of Oporto.
  • 'A...N' (On front edge of pendant, opposite town mark.)
    Translation
    Unidentified maker's mark.
  • Part of unidentifiable mark. (On wire.)
Summary
Traditional jewellery often followed out-dated aristocratic examples. Many Portuguese and Spanish traditional earrings were based on 17th and 18th-century patterns, but over time local differences became fixed, and patterns became characteristic of a particular place.

This earring, called ‘a rainha’, comes from the north of Portugal. Its shape, of a pendant hanging from a stylised bow, derives from a late 17th-century design common throughout Europe. But a 17th-century earring would have had a pear-shaped drop. In Portugal the goldsmiths replaced it with a round crescent. This shape, which is used for traditional earrings throughout inland Spain and the north of Portugal, is very old, and may date back to the time of the Moorish occupation. This earring was bought for £1 10s (the pair) at the International Exhibition, London, 1872.

The name ‘a rainha’ means ‘of the queen’. Earrings of this design are still made today in the north of Portugal.
Collection
Accession number
1076-1873

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdJuly 31, 2006
Record URL
Download as: JSONIIIF Manifest