Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Japan, Room 45, The Toshiba Gallery

Kimono

1870-1890 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The thick, heavy hem of this kimono denotes that it is an outer kimono, or uchikake. It is embroidered with two shishi, mythical lion-dogs characterised by their fierce expressions, large eyes and curly mane and tail. They are shown fighting across a bridge over a waterfall surrounded by peonies. The eyes of the shishi are of glass and the embroidery is padded, giving the scene a very three-dimensional quality. The dramatic design relates to a famous play, Shakkyo (Stone Bridge) which suggests that this kimono is a stage costume for kabuki, the popular theatre of Japan. Designs on stage costumes are rarely so literal, however, and this garment might have been worn by a high-ranking courtesan.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk crêpe with embroidered and resist-dyed decoration
Brief description
Kimono, silk crêpe with embroidery and resist-dyed decoration, Japan, 1870-1890
Physical description
Outer- kimono (uchikake) of mauve silk crêpe. The design is consists of peonies and sprays of plum blossom amid gold clouds on the front and top back, while the lower half of the back is dominated by a scene showing two shishi (mythical lion-dogs) facing each other on a bridge over a waterfall. There are five crests (mon) across the top of the garment resisted out and so left white against the mauve ground. The water is also left white against the darker ground although there are traces of blue brushed dye.
A variety of embroidery techniques was used for all the other motifs - satin stitch in both twisted and untwisted silk yarn, small knot stitch for flower centres, large, loose knots in green for vegetation on hillocks and rocks, gold wrapped thread laid down singly and in pairs and couched down in orange, twisted silk yarn couched down (bridge outline), twisted silk yarn and gold-wrapped thread twisted loosely together and couched down (landscape features), highly twisted silk yarn laid alongside gold wrapped thread and couched down (manes and tails of the lions). The couching is often raised up over padding.
The garment is wadded and lined throughout with scarlet plain weave silk. The lining material also forms a wadded hem.
Dimensions
  • Including collar length: 172cm
  • Across sleeves width: 122cm
Style
Object history
Purchased. Registered File number 1987/506.
Subjects depicted
Summary
The thick, heavy hem of this kimono denotes that it is an outer kimono, or uchikake. It is embroidered with two shishi, mythical lion-dogs characterised by their fierce expressions, large eyes and curly mane and tail. They are shown fighting across a bridge over a waterfall surrounded by peonies. The eyes of the shishi are of glass and the embroidery is padded, giving the scene a very three-dimensional quality. The dramatic design relates to a famous play, Shakkyo (Stone Bridge) which suggests that this kimono is a stage costume for kabuki, the popular theatre of Japan. Designs on stage costumes are rarely so literal, however, and this garment might have been worn by a high-ranking courtesan.
Associated object
FE.14-1983 (Object)
Collection
Accession number
FE.7-1987

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Record createdJuly 20, 2006
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