Not currently on display at the V&A

Beads

19th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

These beads are of the kind known as 'trade', 'aggry' or, sometimes, 'slave' beads. They are usually associated with West Africa but were originally created in Europe. The history of trade beads dates to the 15th century when Portuguese trading ships arrived on the coast of West Africa to exploit its many resources, including gold, slaves, ivory and palm oil. At that time, beads were a major part of the currency exchanged for people and products. Over the following four centuries millions of beads were traded to Africa and by the 19th century European bead makers were producing a wide variety of designs specifically for the African trade.

These twenty-four beads are made of carnelian. The vibrant colour is achieved by heating and shaping the stone which probably came from South America but was formed into beads at the German bead-making centre of Idar-Oberstein. The popularity of the elegant, smooth geometric forms of Idar-Oberstein beads undermined the Indian carnelian industry, which had been supplying stone beads to Africa for centuries.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Carnelian
Brief description
24 carnelian 'trade' beads, made in Germany (Idar-Oberstein), 19th century, for European trade in Africa
Physical description
24 beads in smooth geometric shapes, made of highly-polished carnelian. Five are spherical, six spherical faceted, eight flat hexagonal, three flat quarter-elliptical, one (of banded agate) spindle-shaped, and one spindle-shaped faceted.
Object history
The donor of these beads was Moses Lewin Levin, a London bead merchant whose import-export business operated from 1839 to 1913. Most of the beads he dealt in appear to be Venetian although in 1898 the Levin Company was listed as an importer of Venetian, Bohemian and German beads. The British Museum has an important collection of glass trade beads (including some on sample cards) acquired in 1865 from Lewin Levin. (See – The History of Beads, from 30,000 BC to the Present, Lois Sherr Dubin, London: Thames & Hudson, 1987, p10.)
Historical context
The accessions register notes that the beads were made 'for use in the African slave trade'.
Summary
These beads are of the kind known as 'trade', 'aggry' or, sometimes, 'slave' beads. They are usually associated with West Africa but were originally created in Europe. The history of trade beads dates to the 15th century when Portuguese trading ships arrived on the coast of West Africa to exploit its many resources, including gold, slaves, ivory and palm oil. At that time, beads were a major part of the currency exchanged for people and products. Over the following four centuries millions of beads were traded to Africa and by the 19th century European bead makers were producing a wide variety of designs specifically for the African trade.

These twenty-four beads are made of carnelian. The vibrant colour is achieved by heating and shaping the stone which probably came from South America but was formed into beads at the German bead-making centre of Idar-Oberstein. The popularity of the elegant, smooth geometric forms of Idar-Oberstein beads undermined the Indian carnelian industry, which had been supplying stone beads to Africa for centuries.
Collection
Accession number
1041-1904

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Record createdJuly 12, 2006
Record URL
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