Image of Gallery in South Kensington
Request to view at the Prints & Drawings Study Room, level E , Case SB5, Shelf SH6

Design

05/01/1788 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This is a design for a fan shown open. It has eight different patterns of stick decoration from which the client could choose. There is a plain mount carrying the letter 'M' in an oval. This initial is similar to the cipher of Marie Antoinette, Queen consort of France (1770-1793). Fans were fashionable, personal accessories carried by women as part of dress. The intended weight of the fan is given as six ounces which was important information for the woman who would hold it. The design was drawn by an anonymous designer on the 5th of January, 1788.

The design is inscribed with the price of the fan which was breathtakingly expensive at '6 cent livre' or six hundred livres. In comparison, Jean Bertos, a cook-shop employee who died in 1784, left clothes worth 38 livres which shows how such a fan cost five hundred and sixty-two more livres than the shop assistant's entire wardrobe.

There is a close relationship between the contents of the album and known work by three Parisian goldsmiths, Jean Ducrollay (1710-1787), Pierre- François Drais (active 1761-1788), and Charles Ouizille (1744-1830) whose names appear on the first page of the album. This suggests that all the designs emanate from their workshops. Drais worked for the Court at Versailles as jeweller to both King Louis XV and Louis XVI. Ouizille worked in this capacity for Louis XVI. Most of the material dates from the period 1755-90.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Pencil and pen and ink and watercolour on paper
Brief description
Design form album of designs by Ouizille, French, eighteenth century.
NOT TO BE ISSUED WITHOUT PERMISSION FROM THE HEAD OF DESIGNS
Physical description
Design for a fan, shown open with eight different patterns of stick decoration and a plain mount carrying the letter 'M' in an oval.
.
Dimensions
  • Height: 28cm
  • Width: 36cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'fait le 5 janvier 1788 a 6 cent livre' (In pen and ink to the bottom left beneath the design.)
    Translation
    made on the 5 january for 6 hundred livres
  • 'Exequté' / 'Executé' (In pen and ink above two of the designs for sticks.)
    Translation
    executed
  • 'pois 6. once' (In pen and ink at the far left bottom beneath the design.)
    Translation
    weight 6 onces
  • 'Bon' (Two stick patterns inscribed in pencil and marked with a cross.)
    Translation
    Good
Credit line
Purchased with the assistance of Wartski Limited
Production
Attribution note: There are eight alternative designs for sticks for fans and two are marked 'executé' or executed which is a goldsmith's workshop record that they were made for clients. One has pen and ink marks that suggest that it has been cancelled and another, which has not got the note 'executé', by it also has pen and ink marks suggesting that it has been cancelled because it was made for a client.

The fan when made weighed 6 ounces indicated by the inscription 'poids 6. once'. The price was 6 hundred livres.
Subject depicted
Summary
This is a design for a fan shown open. It has eight different patterns of stick decoration from which the client could choose. There is a plain mount carrying the letter 'M' in an oval. This initial is similar to the cipher of Marie Antoinette, Queen consort of France (1770-1793). Fans were fashionable, personal accessories carried by women as part of dress. The intended weight of the fan is given as six ounces which was important information for the woman who would hold it. The design was drawn by an anonymous designer on the 5th of January, 1788.

The design is inscribed with the price of the fan which was breathtakingly expensive at '6 cent livre' or six hundred livres. In comparison, Jean Bertos, a cook-shop employee who died in 1784, left clothes worth 38 livres which shows how such a fan cost five hundred and sixty-two more livres than the shop assistant's entire wardrobe.

There is a close relationship between the contents of the album and known work by three Parisian goldsmiths, Jean Ducrollay (1710-1787), Pierre- François Drais (active 1761-1788), and Charles Ouizille (1744-1830) whose names appear on the first page of the album. This suggests that all the designs emanate from their workshops. Drais worked for the Court at Versailles as jeweller to both King Louis XV and Louis XVI. Ouizille worked in this capacity for Louis XVI. Most of the material dates from the period 1755-90.
Bibliographic references
  • Roche, Daniel. The culture of clothing: dress and fashion in the "ancien régime". Birrell, Jean. (translated). Cambridge University Press, 1994.
  • Heike Zech, 'Designs for Gold Boxes in the Album of the Workshop of Jean Ducrollay and his Successors', in Going for Gold: craftsmanship and collecting of gold boxes, ed. Tessa Murdoch and Heike Zech (Sussex academic press, 2014).
Collection
Accession number
E.897:324-1988

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Record createdJune 5, 2006
Record URL
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