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Jacket

1760s (weaving), 1780-1795 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Throughout the 18th century fashionable women wore full-length gowns over stays, a stomacher and a full-length skirt for formal wear. They might, however, wear short jackets over their skirts as less formal wear in the morning, or for receiving guests at home, and by the late 1770s a variety of different styles of short gowns or jackets became fashionable. These sometimes derived from those worn by servants and working women, although those garments were often made in less expensive textiles.

This jacket most closely ressembles the casaquin en juste , a simple tight-fitting bodice worn informally by fashionable women over a matching or contrasting full-length skirt. In 1778, the fashion journal Galerie des Modes et Costumes Français depicted a kitchen maid 'newly arrived from the provinces and beginning to learn elegant Parisian airs' (engraving by Le Beau, after Leclerc) in such a bodice, although in plainer fabric and with a shorter sleeve. The long sleeves of this jacket suggest that it dates to the 1780s or 1790s when three-quarter length sleeves ceased to dominate fashionable women's dress.



Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk, linen, cotton; hand-woven, brocaded, block-printed, hand-sewn
Brief description
Woman's jacket of yellow silk satin, 1780-95, France, brocaded in chrysanthemums in coloured silks, Chinese, 1760s
Physical description
Woman’s jacket of yellow silk satin brocaded with coloured silks in a design of chrysanthemums. It has a low, V-neckline, long 2-piece sleeves to the wrists. The back with 3 seams for a fitted shape, forming short skirts below the waist. The waistline is just above the natural waist with gores at the sides and side back inserted to shape over the hips. The silk is pieced and the fronts and back lined with linen. The sleeves are partially lined with linen block-printed in black. The caraco is front opening and fastens with five linen tapes sewn to a linen panel on each side. There are 2 silk-covered buttons and 2 buttonholes at the wrist of each sleeve.
Dimensions
  • Centre neck to centre hem length: 38cm (approx)
  • Waist circumference: 56cm (very approximate)
Summary
Throughout the 18th century fashionable women wore full-length gowns over stays, a stomacher and a full-length skirt for formal wear. They might, however, wear short jackets over their skirts as less formal wear in the morning, or for receiving guests at home, and by the late 1770s a variety of different styles of short gowns or jackets became fashionable. These sometimes derived from those worn by servants and working women, although those garments were often made in less expensive textiles.

This jacket most closely ressembles the casaquin en juste , a simple tight-fitting bodice worn informally by fashionable women over a matching or contrasting full-length skirt. In 1778, the fashion journal Galerie des Modes et Costumes Français depicted a kitchen maid 'newly arrived from the provinces and beginning to learn elegant Parisian airs' (engraving by Le Beau, after Leclerc) in such a bodice, although in plainer fabric and with a shorter sleeve. The long sleeves of this jacket suggest that it dates to the 1780s or 1790s when three-quarter length sleeves ceased to dominate fashionable women's dress.

Collection
Accession number
T.114-2012

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Record createdMay 16, 2012
Record URL
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