Richard James established his bespoke tailor’s shop on Savile Row in 1992. Along with his peers Ozwald Boateng, Timothy Everest and Nick Hart, James became known as one of 'the new establishment bespoke tailors'. These tailors were recognised as attracting a new audience and a younger generation to the concept of investing in a bespoke suit.
Richard James' signature cut, the long lean, one-button jacket became a particularly sought after style. Whilst James adhered to the high standards of cut, construction and finish expected from Savile Row tailors, he was happy to play with elements such as the design and choice of fabric. This suit designed in 1998 uses camouflage patterned material, more usually found on loose combat garments, to subvert the idea of the traditional tailored suit. In the same year, James created two suits in this camouflage fabric for Dustin Hoffman and Robert De Niro to wear on the cover of the American magazine George, bringing his work to the attention of an international audience.