Choker thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
Not currently on display at the V&A
On short term loan out for exhibition

Choker

2005-2011
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Lolita fashion emerged during the 1990s as a radical form of street style born out of the Japanese taste for Hello Kitty cuteness. Whether dressed in pink, powder blue, red, white or black, Lolitas are immediately recognisable by their doll-like make-up, frilly skirts, fanciful headgear, ribbons and lace. A striking feature of Lolita fashion is the extent to which it is influenced by British culture: Alice in Wonderland, Glam Rock, the New Romantics, Gothic, Punk and Vivienne Westwood. Although the attitude and aggression of Punk and Gothic have no place in the world of the Lolita, the movement represents a similarly powerful rebellion against the conventions of contemporary society. The first three sections of the display are devoted to Sweet, Gothic and Punk Lolita. The final section, Japanese Lolita, shows how a fascination with the exotic and alternative has resulted in the reappropriation and sometimes extreme recasting of traditional modes of Japanese dress.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Cotton, silk satin, grosgrain ribbon, plastic diamante
Brief description
Choker, lace and satin, designed by Kumiko Uehara at Baby, the Stars Shine Bright, Japan, 2005-2011
Physical description
Choker, in the shape of a small apron with a lace trim and decorated with several bows. Two light blue satin bows with fake diamond beads, three striped black and white bows and two lacy bows.
Dimensions
  • Height of decorative bib height: 220mm (Maximum) (Note: Measured by conservation)
  • Width of decorative bib width: 21mm (Maximum) (Note: Measured by conservation)
  • Length of ribbon, from point of attachment length: 580mm (Maximum) (Note: Measured by conservation)
  • Depth of decorative bib depth: 40mm (Maximum) (Note: Measured by conservation)
Gallery label
Alice and the Pirates is the sub-brand of Baby, The Stars Shine Bright. It was launched in 2004 to cater to a growing demand for Gothic and Punk inspired clothing. The overall effect is still sweet, but there is a dark edginess to it. The combination of Alice (Alice in Wonderland) and Pirates (Vivienne Westwood's 1981 Pirate Collection) in the brand name is revealing.(11/12/2012)
Object history
This item is part of one of the "Sweet Lolita" outfits on display from 23 April 2012 to January 2013 in the "Kitty and the Bulldog Lolita fashion and the influence of Britain" exhibition at the V&A. Part of the V&A British Design Season.
Summary
Lolita fashion emerged during the 1990s as a radical form of street style born out of the Japanese taste for Hello Kitty cuteness. Whether dressed in pink, powder blue, red, white or black, Lolitas are immediately recognisable by their doll-like make-up, frilly skirts, fanciful headgear, ribbons and lace. A striking feature of Lolita fashion is the extent to which it is influenced by British culture: Alice in Wonderland, Glam Rock, the New Romantics, Gothic, Punk and Vivienne Westwood. Although the attitude and aggression of Punk and Gothic have no place in the world of the Lolita, the movement represents a similarly powerful rebellion against the conventions of contemporary society. The first three sections of the display are devoted to Sweet, Gothic and Punk Lolita. The final section, Japanese Lolita, shows how a fascination with the exotic and alternative has resulted in the reappropriation and sometimes extreme recasting of traditional modes of Japanese dress.
Collection
Accession number
FE.316-2011

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Record createdNovember 25, 2011
Record URL
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